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Variation to For Love of Mothernot T 

Paddling About Variant 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 300'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 163
Submitted By: Joe Brannan on Jul 13, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Same start of but slightly cliimber's right of Paddling About's P1. It is left of the large tree midway up the lower face and ends at the same belay ledge for Paddling About.


This 50 meter pitch is climber's right of Paddling About's P1. Scramble up the initial 50 feet of class 3 and 4 terrain (same as Paddling About) to where you feel you need the rope, which is probably just above a pine bush. Heading up and left from this location would follow Paddling About. This variant uses a fun finger crack to reach the P1-P2 belay ledge for Paddling About.

Instead of following Paddling About (5.5), climb up and slightly right through vegetated terrain (5.4) to a small ledge with an obvious finger crack. The crack heads up and left beneath a small diagonal roof. Climb the crack using finger locks and thin feet for a few moves (5.7+) then complete a few easier juggier moves straight up to a short dihedral capped by a small roof (5.6). Climb the dihedral and turn the roof to the left (crux, 5.8), then follow the finger crack for 20 feet (5.8) to easier ground. The amazing belay ledge atop P1 of Paddling About will greet you. Continue second pitch as for Paddling About.

I think this pitch deserves two stars, one for the crack and another for the position.


The gear is pretty good in the crack. Nothing above a 0.75" Camalot is needed. Mostly small cams and nuts.

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