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Paddle Flake Direct 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 500', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Chris Atkinson, Dan Redford, August 1989
Page Views: 5,161
Submitted By: Steven Lucarelli on Oct 5, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
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Last pitch of Paddle Flake from McTech Arete. NW ...

Description 

This is a fun route on really good quality rock and all the pitches are rated 5.10 according to the book with the crux coming on the 4th pitch.

P1: Start about 10' to the left of a large left facing dihedral and follow finger cracks up the face. Two overhangs are encountered on this pitch which are bypassed by climbing left around the first one and right around the second. Belay just above the second overhang at a small stance.

P2: Follow cracks and face climbing to a steeper upper wall and belay.

P3: Continue climbing the face heading up and right to a chimney, struggle up the chimney and belay on top at a two bolt anchor. (It is also possible to avoid the chimney by traversing to the right and climbing a hand crack to the same stance).

P4: Step right and climb up a steep crack corner to perfect hands through a roof. Pull the roof and belay in a crack to the left.

P5: Climb straight up awkward finger to fist sized cracks to the top of the ridge.

Location 

To get to this route climb up about 40' from the Crescent Glacier to a large ledge. Follow the ledge left to get to the start of the first pitch which is about 40' to the left of McTech Arete, and 10' left of a large left facing dihedral (that's a lot of left's). To get down walk east up the ridge to the top of McTech Arete and look out on the south face for a chain anchor. The anchor is not visible from above. Only one 60m rope is needed for the rappels.

Protection 

Small cams and extra nuts for the lower pitches and hand to fist size cams up high. There is one bolted belay about halfway up at the top of a chimney but the rest you have to set up yourself.


Photos of Paddle Flake Direct Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Hans on first pitch of PF Direct
Hans on first pitch of PF Direct
Rock Climbing Photo: Crux 4th pitch.
Crux 4th pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Traversing in from the first pitch of Westside Sto...
Traversing in from the first pitch of Westside Sto...
Rock Climbing Photo: Party on Paddle Flake Direct
Party on Paddle Flake Direct
Rock Climbing Photo: Guess where!
Guess where!
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down the 1st pitch of Paddle Flake Direct
BETA PHOTO: Looking down the 1st pitch of Paddle Flake Direct

Comments on Paddle Flake Direct Add Comment
Show which comments
By Devan Johnson
Aug 3, 2010

Much better overall than Mctech..
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Aug 16, 2015

Due to an impending storm we found it's possible to escape from the tat anchors near the base of the paddle flake by climbing up and right to the big corner and then making a non-hands, tricky foot traverse right across the clean face along the obvious crack leading up and right to the small, overhanging alcove where the bolted rap anchors of Westside Story are found. This was probably about 10b and bit scarier for the second but actually pretty fun, interesting climbing.

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