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Padded Cell 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Drew Bedford 1987
Page Views: 1,243
Submitted By: Alex Quitiquit on Jul 18, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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BETA PHOTO: "Padded Cell" as viewed from "Encor...

Description 

It seems, as usual, the Ruckmans had it best, "The smooth face above the amphitheater overhang will drive you stark-raving mad."

Climb off the ledge on good positive crimps and distinct feet passing two bolts. At the third bolt there are two options...

Option 1 - bust hard left and climb powerful yet delicates liebacks up and around joining the bolt line back after a tiny roof. 12a

Option 2 - Sell your sanity to the devil and climb directly though the bolt line and make highsteps and delicate footwork through small crimps and an improbably half pad pinch. Keep it together to the next bolt. 12c - this is where the Ruckman-ism holds truth.

Follow positive but still engaging (5.11) holds to the anchors.

I'm giving it 5.12 - the Guidebook says 12a or 12c. You choose.

Location 

Up and above the Amphitheater overhang on the smooth slightly over-vertical face. Several options to get to it.
1. Climb the first pitch of Encore (5.7) to the anchors below the face. 2
2. Climb the first pitch of the Flake (5.6) to the anchors below the face
3. Get your Grr face on and climb Amphitheater Overhang Left (.12e) and cool down on Padded Cell.

Protection 

Bolts. 6. The crux bolt is sticking out a bit and the hanger spins - could use an upgrade.


Photos of Padded Cell Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Padded Cell  Thanks to Nate_801 for the photo.
BETA PHOTO: Padded Cell Thanks to Nate_801 for the photo.

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