This is a small crag within Chatfield Hollow State Park. I don't know of any climbing history here but would love to know of it if it exists!
The routes are between 30 and 40 feet in length and climb on high quality gneiss. All the routes are protected by natural gear but, because of the belly-shape of the cliff, you usually have to boulder the first section before you can place a piece, so...bring a pad. Also, bring 50-100 ft. of webbing for anchors as there are no fixed anchors. Bring your small stuff up to a #1 BD and a brush. This crag has potential for a few more FA's, but needs a little attention.
Drive to the main park entrance at Chatfield Hollow.
When the pond loop road is open: Drive in and park on the left next to the beach. Cross the road, walk past the picnic area in the pines up into the woods. The cliff should be visible as it is only a few hundred yards uphill.
When the pond loop road is closed: Park and walk.
Climbing Season For the Eastern Coastal Slope area.
Weather station 7.1 miles from here
5 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Pad Crag
Belly 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
: Eastern Coastal Slope
: Pad Crag
This is the best line on the cliff (so far). There are two starting variations. Either slap your way up the amazing belly or lay back on the grainy quartz feature. Either way, the crux is getting past the small overhang looming above. Continue up past the belly on cool red rock and perfect holds. ...[more] Browse More Classics in CT
getting FA's, or so we think...