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Sunset Flatironette
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Disinclination T,TR 
Pack Rat T 
South Ridge [better known as Chase the Sun] T 
Steppin' Out T 

Pack Rat 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 133
Submitted By: Warren Teissier on Apr 4, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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BETA PHOTO: First from the Third.

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This route 70 foot route climbs the severely overhanging West face at the only possible weakness on the wall. It follows a slot/dihedral that starts some 30 feet south of the North West corner of the rock.

The start is best reached by following the trail between the First and Second all the way up and skirting around the North side of the Sunset Flatiron. It is a nice extra credit after completing routes on either of the First or Second Flatirons.

Start at the base of the slot and climb past three cruxes/bulges. Each requoring different technique. The route protect very well. Once you reach the ridge scramble 10 feet North (left) to the summit.

Descent - downclimb East to easier territory and eventually onto the trail.

You can see the Sunset Flatironette on the picture just left of the first. This is a view from the Third.


Standard rack, #3 Camalot will come in handy.

Photos of Pack Rat Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Erik W leading Pack Rat.
Erik W leading Pack Rat.
Rock Climbing Photo: Erik W getting off the ground on Pack Rat.
Erik W getting off the ground on Pack Rat.
Rock Climbing Photo: George Bell in a no-hands rest at the crux of Pack...
George Bell in a no-hands rest at the crux of Pack...

Comments on Pack Rat Add Comment
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By Chris Plesko
From: Westminster, CO
Aug 5, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

This makes an all right warm up climb and easy access to Disinclination if you want to setup a top rope. There is some loose stuff and we found a couple small cams handy and did not need a #3.
By Tom Fitzgerald
From: Denver, CO
Mar 20, 2017
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

A couple moves off the ground, what was once a chockstone is now a death block. If it were me, I would not trust the big wobbly chockstone as a hold anymore. I would not want to be the poor soul that pulled on that thing and sent it flying.

Honestly, there are just so many better routes all around in the Flatirons that it's probably best to avoid this one until the death block is gone.

But hey, if you want to squeeze through some animal scat for maybe one interesting climbing move, I won't stop ya.
By Long Ranger
From: Boulder, Colorado
Mar 21, 2017

I climbed this last week but didn't notice a loose block. Tom: where are you finding it, exactly?
By Long Ranger
From: Boulder, Colorado
Mar 27, 2017

Tom's right, there is a loose block:

Rock Climbing Photo: Loose!

It's manageable though, as you would start on the S. side of that pyramid block just below it, and traverse N. to gain easy access to the slot, using the top of the pyramid black for your hands.

I'd give this route a start just for uniqueness in the area and as an interesting way to gain the summit of the Flatironette, when linking formations. From the top, you can then downclimb Chasing the Sun.

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