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Joel Unema sticking the dyno on the first ascent. ...
While vampires are often brooding, solitary creatures, another type of mythical monster exists and runs in packs, the werewolf. This route demanded the strength and tenacity of the entire pack to reach completion. Upon first glance, the route appears featured and barely vertical... it looks easy. A second inspection reveals the desperately thin nature of the seam, the utter lack of positive holds, and the dearth of features for the feet.
A single hold defines the crux of Pack Mentality, but you'll get well aquainted with this hold as you use it in several different ways. Committing and improbable moves lead to much easier, but engaging and steep climbing in the second half.
Pack Mentality shares a start with Nightwalker and traverses left along an obvious horizontal rail around 35 feet up. From here, it continues up the obvious thin seam, staying right of Rapture, and left of Nightwalker.
The route can also be started off the right side of the Rapture belay pillar.
This route was first freed with all natural protection, including several marginal loweballs protecting (or falling out) at the crux. After sending, the FA party added two bolts to protect the crux. Bring a double set of cams from 000 C3 to #.75 C4 with a healthy set of nuts.
BETA PHOTO: Pack Mentality
By JJ Schlick
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Oct 9, 2014
You boys sure are busy, and climbing well!