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Pack Animal 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: F.F.A. Jeff Thomas, Jack Callahan, 4/7/74
Page Views: 1,883
Submitted By: JohnK on Jun 29, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (28)
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Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


Ascend the protectable crack (5.5) then make a tricky traverse to an old fixed pin. Another tricky move to easier moves to a small ledge belay. The second pitch follows the sweet right-facing dihedral past a small roof (5.8) to the top.


On the Fourth Horseman next to Pack Animal Direct.


Gear to 2.5 inches.

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By ferrells
Nov 22, 2008

awesome warm-up and worth the hassle of placing gear if done in a single pitch. i got to the top of the first pitch, and realized id only used twenty meters or so of rope, so i linked into the second.
it's fun, varied, clean, and has only one section of challenging gear placement (1st pitch). i shouldnt say that, because i did not clip the fixed pin (looks fresh and solid), or the retro-bolt above. the pin looked like rope drag city, and i had just fiddled in a #4 bd nut in the tricky gear section when i then found and ignored the bolt. if you clipped both of these with long runners, i suppose you might not even have a thin, tricky placement or rope drag.
put long runners on everything, and downclimb to unclip the first bolt (on ledge) once you have the second clipped.
the moves and rock make this a great moderate. the only thing that leaves a bad taste is the top belay, which is shockingly uncomfortable. someone recently placed a bolt above and right - i didnt see it until we were done - so use this to make the belay more comfortable.
when done as a single pitch, its long as hell - i would use a 70m if you want to be able to lower (didnt do this, we topped out and rapped off elsewhere), and Tie a Knot in the belay end of the rope. i cant guarantee that a 70 will get you to the ground from the top anchor, but you should be able to improvise.
By BSwett
From: Bend, Or.
Apr 13, 2011

I linked the awesome 5.8 top pitch by starting on the Taiwan On arete, (hardest 10c in the planet @##&). A lot more fun than the sketchy 5.5 start. Rappelled fine with a 70m. Tie knots though!
By Toby Butterfield
From: Portland, OR
May 1, 2011
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

The fixed pins that previously protected the thin crack on P1 are now gone. There is a decent medium-small nut placement in the lower part of the crack, and a great placement for a teeny-tiny nut a bit higher... too small to really trust though. Best bet is to clip that bolt out to your right.
By Eric Fjellanger
May 7, 2012

This goes very nicely as one long pitch using a 70, you could probably do it with a 60 and a little easy simuling.
By Richard Denker
From: Portland OR
Feb 28, 2015

Note the fixed pins on the first pitch are gone. As even if you clip the Headless Horseman bolt it is still R. The first chance for pro after the traverse is up a bit in the corner It takes a very small Rock Stopper (#1 or 2). About 2 meters above that is a bolt (Taiwan On route). Use it! Soon after that is the anchor. If you feel the need to protect the 5.5 approach, you probability should not lead this; the route between the bolt on Headless Horseman to the bolt on Taiwan On is long, runout, 5.8 and is not to marginally protected.
By another Chad
Aug 31, 2015

What is the rappel situation for getting off of Pack Animal?

BSwett, I agree that Taiwan On is unusually hard for a 5.10c. Then again, Reason To Be seems abnormally hard for a 10d so maybe my arête technique stinks.

By Frank F
From: Bend, OR
Nov 6, 2015

You can do two raps with a 60m rope to descend the route if no one is coming up behind you. Both belay stances are well bolted. Or, as stated, a single rap with a 70m rope.

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