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Pack Animal Direct 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Tom Rogers & Jeff Elphinston 1972, FFA: Jeff Thomas & Chet Sutterlin 3/77
Season: year round
Page Views: 2,655
Submitted By: rpc on Jan 27, 2006

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Pack Animal Direct

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Pack Animal Direct offers a harder option for Pack Animal pitch 1 (Pack Animal is a 2-pitch 5.8 trad line on the Four Horsemen). It is listed in the guidebook as a separate route.

Look for a 30-foot, right-facing dihedral capped by a small roof (it's on the face just right of Headless Horseman). Dihedral starts about 10 feet above ground.

Scramble up to base of dihedral (c. 5.7). Stem your way up the clean corner. There's an intermittent crack in corner (improves a bit higher up) but it's THIN (tips for most). At top, step left just below the roof to a bolted anchor atop pitch 1 of Pack Animal. The route felt hard for the grade.


Many small nuts. Small cams up to #0.75 Camalot (1 spot for this one).

Photos of Pack Animal Direct Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Shirley sending Pack Animal Direct.
Shirley sending Pack Animal Direct.
Rock Climbing Photo: I would never have thought I had been climbing lon...
I would never have thought I had been climbing lon...

Comments on Pack Animal Direct Add Comment
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By Bryson Slothower
May 8, 2006
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

This route feels hard for the grade to me too. A fun option is to continue to the top of Pack Animal in one long pitch.
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Oct 22, 2006
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Fun, technical stemming and fingering up a well protected (by small nuts) corner. Clip the bolt off right with a long sling if you don't want a bit of a run to the first piece. Like the description mentions above, it is pretty much all small nuts and one 0.75 Camalot. The second pitch was good fun 5.8 stemming as well. A 70m rope made it to the ground.
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Mar 14, 2017
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

the roof on this now has 5 or 6 beautiful swallows nests, which don't affect the route, just don't touch them.

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