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YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R

Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 540', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R [details]
FA: George and Joanne Urioste, 1980
Page Views: 861
Submitted By: John Wilder on Oct 15, 2005

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BETA PHOTO: Cloud Tower reaching the skyline on the right, Gin...

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The Pachyderm is an interesting route with interesting character. Upon first looking at it, it is not immediately obvious that a good route is here. The first pitch is obvious, but the broken face above it doesnt immediately reveal itself to be passable. Yet, about 200' above this face is an appealing looking chimney. Our thanks to George and Joanne for braving unknown terrain for this fine route.

The Pachyderm lies near the base of the ramp, on the second buttress on your left. Look for a dark, varnished chimney that leads to a prominent scoop about half a rope length up the wall.

Pitch 1: Climb the chimney to the scoop and belay. 5.8, 120'

Pitch 2: Some choices present themselves. The original route stepped slightly left off belay and headed up, following old bolts to a bolted stance about 100' above. However, there seems to be another option by stepping right off the belay ledge and heading up that way. This way may be at least worth a look- as there are new bolts up near the belay on this side, and there may be one or two more closer to belay. Either way, head up for about 100' until you see a bolted belay (new bolts). 5.9, 100'

Pitch 3: From this belay, traverse right to the chimney and follow it up to a nice ledge. 150', 5.7

Pitch 4: Head up the chimney to the summit, 190', 5.7 (There is an optional belay about 50' below the summit if rope drag is an issue.)

Descent:This descent is tricky and dangerous and extreme care needs to be used! Drop into the gully on the west side of the formation. Although you need two ropes to descend, the first three rappels can and should be made with a single line. Upon arrival at the fourth rap, use the second line to make one long rappel to the floor. (Variation: A fifth rap station is far off to the west below the fourth rap station. Its condition is unknown, but it may be possible to use this to get down with a single line)


Bring a good selection of gear on this route to 3". A 4" cam is nice to have one or twice, but not absolutely necessary.

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