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Oz Rock Climbing 

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Location: 36.61209, -118.12059 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Josh Cameron on Sep 5, 2011
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Hannah Thatcher leading Dorothy's Crack


What looks like a giant north and east facing boulder protruding out of the hillside offers several climbs in the 5.10 to 5.11 range. There are a couple of moderate cracks here in addition to the classic 5.11 "The Wizard." It's bolted now, but the FA was done on gear.

You can hike around back to set TR's, but be careful getting to some of the anchors as you will right on the cliff edge.

A good place to escape the heat, but it can be frigidly cold when other crags are hot.

Getting There 

Follow Movie Road to the T-intersection (you can no longer go straight). Hang a right and drive into and then out of a large drainage. Right before the road makes a prominent left hand turn, hang another right onto a spur road. If you have a nice car, park here and walk about 5-10 minutes down the road to the crag. Oz will be obvious when it comes into view.

Climbing Season

For the Alabama Hills area.

Weather station 13.6 miles from here

6 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Oz

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Oz:
Dorothy's Crack   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad   East Face
The Wizard   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   East Face
Over the Rainbow   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 65'   East Face
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Oz

Featured Route For Oz
Rock Climbing Photo: Hannah Thatcher leading Dorothy's Crack

Dorothy's Crack 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  California : Sierra Eastside : ... : East Face
Face climb for 15 feet to reach the crack. From there, climb the fun handcrack to the anchors. Lower off....[more]   Browse More Classics in California

Comments on Oz Add Comment
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By Richard Shore
Oct 1, 2012
A great shady spot for hot days, and good rock quality. No approach time, so don't forget the cooler and beer. Check out Dorothy's Crack 5.9 and The Wizard 5.11b for a welcome change from the usual 'Bama Hills clip-ups.

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