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YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,388
Submitted By: saxfiend on Mar 5, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (125)
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mid-route on Oyster


The intimidation factor on this nice sport route is the big roof near the top. If you're smart, you'll use the spacious ledge about half-way up to regain some energy for the pumpy finish.

Climb the steep face on good holds past three bolts to a ledge. Trend left, following the bolted line, then move right to a roof. A well-placed bolt protects the final moves to pull the roof on nice jugs.

NOTE: Oyster is the subject of some confusion with neighboring routes on the south side of Holiday block. In the Dixie Cragger's Atlas, the listing for Gravy Train actually describes Oyster, while the listing for Oyster should be labeled as Rabies (5.11a). Some consider Oyster a retrobolt of the trad line Gravy Train, but the two climbs, while close in proximity, are separate routes with distinctly different climbing character.


Starts at the left end of the south side of Holiday Block, just right of Gravy Train. Lower off/rap from anchors.


Eight bolts; ring anchors at the top.

Photos of Oyster Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Cory Brewster topping out Oyster.
Cory Brewster topping out Oyster.
Rock Climbing Photo: May very well be the first Japanese send of the ro...
May very well be the first Japanese send of the ro...
Rock Climbing Photo: Oyster, rainy day
Oyster, rainy day
Rock Climbing Photo: My first time on the climb
My first time on the climb
Rock Climbing Photo: Oyster.
Rock Climbing Photo: Brad K. on Oyster.
Brad K. on Oyster.

Comments on Oyster Add Comment
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By gus
From: Alabama
Oct 23, 2007

this route goes on gear too. If you do it trad, its called "The Real Oyster."
By Brad "Stonyman" Killough
From: Alabama
Nov 13, 2008

I've done this route 20 or so times and I didn't realize it to go trad. That's awesome!!
By saxfiend
From: Decatur, GA
May 31, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Finally got around to leading Oyster after all these years. Really nice climbing! The rest ledge is a real arm-saver.
By Cres Simpson
From: Cambridge, MA
Jan 28, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Great late afternoon climb in cooler weather -- this route gets sun all afternoon.

More 5.8+/5.9ish except for pulling the roof at the top, which felt like a solid 10a move.

Definitely an underrated Sand Rock route -- great views from the top and a solid climb.
By Brandon.Phillips
From: Alabama
Nov 2, 2015
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This is the farthest left sport route on this side of the wall. Agreed that it was 5.8/9 with a couple of 10a moves thrown in at the top. I would like to try it on gear.

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