REI Community
Pirate's Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blackbeard S 
Booty (aka Long John) S 
Clast Away S 
Cobbles and Crossbones S 
Oxymorons S 
Pirated S 
Pirates of the Carabiner S 
Scurvy Dog S 
Shiver Me Cobbles S 
Terror on the High [Eleven] Sea S 
Trick or Treat? (aka Captain Hook) S 
Walking the Plank (aka The Buzz) S 

Oxymorons 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 674
Submitted By: Jason Halladay on Jun 29, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
A bit run-out up high

Description 

Smallish holds from the ground past the first bolt over the initial bulge are the route's crux. After that the climbing is easier but the bolt spacing gets your attention near the finish.
The 11a climbing is done way early in the route. A decent route for breaking into the 11s.

Location 

The route starts in black rock with a small bulge about eight feet up. This is the first route to the right of Scurvy Dog --about 20 feet away.

Protection 

6 bolts to stainless steel clip anchors.


Photos of Oxymorons Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: You have to want the 1st bolt!
You have to want the 1st bolt!
Rock Climbing Photo: Significant penalty for a blown 2nd clip!
Significant penalty for a blown 2nd clip!
Rock Climbing Photo: Blowing the second clip would suck...bad!
Blowing the second clip would suck...bad!

Comments on Oxymorons Add Comment
Show which comments
By Shirtless Mike
Administrator
From: Denver, CO
Jul 2, 2007

To me this is probably one of the worst routes at El Rito. Difficult un-fun start leads to much easier climbing, and run-outs on poor chossy rock. Somewhere between a bomb and one star.
By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Jul 9, 2007

I agree, this route is pretty bad. Its a shame the rock here isn't better shaped, since its one of the tallest cliffs around.
By Matt Price
Sep 12, 2007
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13

The route does have its problems. I was pretty freaked out leading it cause I thought I was going to deck trying to clip the second bolt. The top is fun & mellow, but is inconsistent w/ the bottom.
By Owen Summerscales
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jul 23, 2017

I think this route is better than the above comments make it sound. Yes it is an intensely bouldery route, with a V2+ opening boulder problem (what's that in YDS? 5.11a seems sandbagged) into a pretty decent, but runout 5.10. It isnt chossy, just a little under-trafficked, and there are some beautiful large water-polished quartzite boulder-cobbles up high.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About