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BBQ Brush T 
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ker-THUD! T,S 
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Unknown 5.9 T 

Oxygen Debt 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Paul Gagner, Rich Perch 1986
Page Views: 869
Submitted By: Brian Milhaupt on Jan 1, 2002

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route starts a few feet to the left of Bloody Knees in the large, dark, and steep right-facing dihedral. Start up the thin crack in the middle of the dihedral. This quickly widens and eventually becomes an offwidth for a few moves to the smaller overhang. Here you are faced with some fist jams if you have large hands. The rest is low angle to the anchor, 70'.

This route was fun but short, and required more intricate footwork than would be expected on a desert fist crack. I thought the climbing was easier than I expected, but I have big hands. If you can't get a fist or forearm jam in the overhang 11+ is probably accurate.

Protection 

Single rack through #2 Camalot. Double 3 and 4. Big bros 1,2 and (2) #3.


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