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Ox Crack 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
Page Views: 2,454
Submitted By: Jeff Mekolites on Dec 16, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (36)
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Upper section of Ox crack (after the 'left ramp', ...


The climbing on Ox Crack might seem hard right off the ground but after a few awkward moves bomber hand jams appear. Follow the crack up and then left to a ramp. Next head right and out under a roof before stepping up to the anchors.


Upper Leda...hard to miss the nice looking hand crack in a corner that weaves up through roofs.


Trad gear. Tree with slings at the top.

Photos of Ox Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Breather between bouldery beginning and the Crack.
Breather between bouldery beginning and the Crack.
Rock Climbing Photo: Clean view of Crack and Roof.
BETA PHOTO: Clean view of Crack and Roof.
Rock Climbing Photo: Ox Crack, Leda, TN
Ox Crack, Leda, TN

Comments on Ox Crack Add Comment
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By Roodbass
From: Chattanooga, TN
Mar 25, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

To reduce rope drag, bring a pair of 4 foot slings for anchors. Also, this route is known by locals as Ox Stone Crack.
By Swamp Cookie
From: da Bayou
Mar 28, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Bolted anchors at the top now.
By cshuey77 shuey
From: Asheviile,nc
May 27, 2010

best 5.8 at leda. perfect handjams on the bottom half.
By highneed
Aug 19, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Beautiful line that is hard to walk by. Often wet after a rain. Great route for new 5.8 leader if you can get past the first 12 feet.
By Dylan H
Jan 4, 2017

What is the bolted line to the right of Ox Crack that shares the same anxhor?
By Douglas Kempthorne
Aug 7, 2017
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

There are two old shunts above the first roof for a sport climb, the Ox Crack anchors are right of the second roof about 15' above the shunts and harder to spot from the ground. The anchor was a pair of vertically arranged hangers with rings, and an older sling between the two as a sort of backup.

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