Owls Head Mountain Rock Climbing
|Private Property, hiking and climbing tolerated|
A nice little nob that has some great views, relaxed ambiance, and some nice clean (albeit short/easy) crack climbs right at the summit. The vantage point here may be the best part...as one is climbing on the cliff they can expect great views of Pitchoff, Cascade, Hurricane, and Giant mountains. A very popular hiking trail, so expect some curious glances when you top out on the summit.
Rock is clean for the most part, a little lichen here and there to keep things interesting. Top-roping may be done with prodigious use of static line (trees are far back), or by building a gear anchor.
Given the sunny exposure, I can imagine warm rock climbing can take place here well into the early winter and in the spring.
Park at Owl's Head Lane, located 3.1 miles from the 73/9 intersection (driving from Keene to Lake Placid), on the left. Park at a side road a short distance up the road, next to the trail sign. A quick mile to the summit, and a gully on the right becomes prominent just before the actual summit. The cliff base is down this gully.
Climbing Season For the C: Keene Region area.
Weather station 8.5 miles from here
6 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Owls Head Mountain
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Owls Head Mountain
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Owls Head Mountain:
Hooters 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Peckers 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Featured Route For Owls Head Mountain
Me and my dad climbing on Owls Head cliff
Pano of Owls Head in October
BETA PHOTO: Easy 10 minute hike leads to this cliff, do not be...
BETA PHOTO: Bigger view of the cliffs, not my photo, taken fro...
View of the cliff before turning right down draina...
By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
Oct 21, 2013
Great beginner's crag with nice views, clean cracks, and relatively easy top ropes (30' of static line is useful for the climbs on the left side).
This could probably be lumped in with the other High Peaks climbing areas.
By Nolan Huther
From: Clarkson University
6 days ago
A helmet is fairly mandatory. There's a fair amount of loose gravely rock and a few big pieces on the summit. A careless hiker could easily kick some off without realizing, or the wind might take some turned up pieces. While my group was hanging out, a baseball sized chuck came rocketing down. I had just been up on the summit a few minutes earlier and no one was even up there!
Though this cliff is quite sunny, it can get very windy. A calm day allows you to climb later in the season, but on a November day when I visited, it was getting blasted. Not very cozy...