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16 - The Owl
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Dromedary T 
Mirage T 
Owl Bypass, The T 
Owl Roof T 
Walrus, The T 
Wicked Jones Crusher T 

Owl Roof 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: FA (using chockstone placed by Bridwell): Tom Higgins, 1973. FFA (chockstone removed): Dale Bard, by 1977
Page Views: 3,019
Submitted By: Blitzo on Oct 24, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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1978. Never made it! Call me a poser, but I only h...

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is the wide crack that splits the roof at the top of The Owl.

Protection 

Pro to 6".


Photos of Owl Roof Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Yosemite's Owl Roof. It's a lot of work fo...
Yosemite's Owl Roof. It's a lot of work fo...

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By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
May 23, 2010

While it appears that this is wide all the way, it actually tapers inside very quickly and is basically a fist crack until maybe 2' from the end of the roof. Blue, gray, and purple camalots, with an optional 5" or 6" piece.
By Bryan G
From: Yosemite
Apr 12, 2011

Lots of great history in this thread

supertopo.com/climbing/thread....
By Osprey Overhang
From: ...
Jan 7, 2012

FA(using chockstone placed by Bridwell): Tom Higgins, 1973
FFA(chockstone removed): Dale Bard, [not Jardine], by 1977
By Evan Wisheropp
Dec 3, 2016

There is a lot of mystery and misinformation about the route out there. I would say your best option is to just get up there and give it a go. Will's gear list is good. Bringing a few extra #3s will keep the rope up in the crack and out of your way, followed by a #4 and old #4. A #5 isn't great, but a #6 is the best way to keep your head from smacking the slab if you fall right after the crux. Place gear attentively or you'll be in for an unpleasant surprise while trying to top out. Regardless, cleaning and getting off of the top is a pain.
By Louis Mullerleile
From: Sacramento, California
Jan 16, 2017

After you crush this thing, down aiding is best option imo, then rapping.

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