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Owl Crack 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 
Season: wen ever
Page Views: 2,657
Submitted By: Devin Fin on Jun 12, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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the route

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Tight hands in a corner with 1 and 2 camalots to a bulge where it widens a little to 3 camalot. There is a small flare at the top that may take a 4 camalot if you want, and then you're at the anchor. The name of this climb is due to the fact that an owl lives in the cave at the top.

Location 

Left of the Naked and the Dead up on a big stack of boulders. Scramble up and enjoy a little zone long forgotten about. After you jam this gem you won't forget.

Edit: if you have a 4-legged friend there is a touch of 4th class to reach the climb and said nice hang.

Protection 

3 #1 camalots, 3 #2 camalots, maybe a #4. If you have soft hands tape.


Photos of Owl Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: at the anchor chillen with the owl.
at the anchor chillen with the owl.
Rock Climbing Photo: clean
clean

Comments on Owl Crack Add Comment
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By Matt Pierce
From: Denver, CO
Apr 11, 2017

CONDITION REPORT 
"one new-looking but loose (can wiggle it with your fingers - zoiks!) bolt."

Owl Crack had the same last weekend - the right anchor bolt was super loose. I wiggled the whole thing to see if it would pull out and it didnt so I hand tightened the bolt and still used for the rap (along with the other bomber bolt)

Not sure why routes in the area are having so many loose bolts?
By Fulford
Apr 1, 2014

Great route. It seems to correspond to route #1 in the guidebook. Best to approach it from the left - easy, but exposed scrambling. The route is actually only ~80'.
By Devin Fin
From: DURANGO
Apr 2, 2014

Doug how did the anchor's look i need to get up there an revamp them IIRC?
By Fulford
Apr 2, 2014

Hey Devin neither my wife or I noticed anything sketchy about this anchor. However, both Anunnaki and Closed Course have one new-looking but loose (can wiggle it with your fingers - zoiks!) bolt. Thanks for posting all the beta here, and also for the new routes and anchor replacement you've been doing.
By Devin Fin
From: DURANGO
Apr 3, 2014

thanks Doug for the input ... an thank you for the props on the work i have been doing.... cheers DF

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