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Overnight Sensation 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Brooke Sandahl 1987
Page Views: 1,288
Submitted By: Sinner on Apr 15, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
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Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Sustained climbing leads to a surprisingly balancy crux right before reaching the arete. Don't get run off by the slightly high second bolt as the holds are bomber till after the clip.

Location 

This line runs directly up the middle of combination blocks, 10ft right of Double Trouble

Protection 

bolts


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By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Jun 9, 2011

The first crux seemed hard for the grade (10c?). Crux of the ledge felt fair for the grade. A little spooky making the moves off the ledge because of the ledge fall potential.
By Nathan Scherneck
From: Portland, OR
May 20, 2015
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

I was told this route doesn't get much attention. Not sure why. I found it to be one of the funnest low 11s in the park. Although B1 and 2 might look a bit spaced, both crux moves are with a bolt at your chest or just below. Recommended.
By Franck Vee
Jul 15, 2017
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Interesting moves, but rather short.

I'm really not sure of the grade either. Guidebook says 11a and here as well - but I climbed Panic Attack (11d/12a) right after and found it barely harder that this (Crux for crux)... Also climbed Ring of Fire (11d) and though it was longer, a bit harder at the crux and more sustained, I don't see how that can be 11a if the other grades are anything close to right. I've onsighted multiple 11a at Smith, and this one is very much smith-style... Perhaps I just had a bad climb. At any rate this is solid 11 for sure IMO, I'd give it a b.

For those worried about falling after the 1st clip above the ledge - the fall is actually OK it seems from above, because the ledge peters out just below those bolts, so you wouldn't be falling on the ledge. Not the best fall but I doubt you'd hurt yourself unless unlucky.

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