Continue with onX Maps
Continue with Facebook
All Locations >
International
> N America
> Canada
> British Columbia
> Squamish
> Malamute
> Overly Hanging Out
Overly Hanging Out
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3.5 from 23
votes
Routes in Overly Hanging Out
|
|
Overly Hanging Out T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
|
|
Underly Hanging Out T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Trad, 180 ft (55 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | R. Ron, T. Gibson, P. Croft, T. Knight, 1980 |
| Page Views: | 3,180 total · 18/month |
| Shared By: | Peter Spindloe on Aug 29, 2009 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Camping
Details
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
This classic deserves more traffic. It's adventurous, unusual, and excellent.
P1 (5.8). The first pitch could probably be skipped (which you can do since you rap in), but it's necessary for the full experience. The stump that in 1980 was probably quite solid, is now quite questionable. Unfortunately, until it comes off completely, you pretty much have to use it to get started. The rest of the climbing isn't hard, but it's dirty from lack of use and some of the blocks and flakes move.
P2 (5.11b) This spectacular pitch heads up the arch passing a number of overlaps. To be sure you head right under the correct overlap, note the following: you'll get a very weird long skinny flexing flake for your hands and see a bolt on the face above the next overlap. Clip the bolt, but don't pull up over the overlap, instead, head right and clip another bolt and you'll curve around to the belay. We got confused and pulled up that overlap (aid) and suffered through dirt and scary loose flakes. A first we thought going right at the bolts was another route, Underly Hanging Out, but that one is one overlap lower.
P3 (5.10a) From the belay pull up and left into the obvious cracks. Getting over the lip is harder than it looks involving a tight hand jam, a fist jam and something akin to humping. The guidebook describes a final sting in the tail, but it's very mild, especially if you have small cams (I used a blue alien, but there are other options).
P1 (5.8). The first pitch could probably be skipped (which you can do since you rap in), but it's necessary for the full experience. The stump that in 1980 was probably quite solid, is now quite questionable. Unfortunately, until it comes off completely, you pretty much have to use it to get started. The rest of the climbing isn't hard, but it's dirty from lack of use and some of the blocks and flakes move.
P2 (5.11b) This spectacular pitch heads up the arch passing a number of overlaps. To be sure you head right under the correct overlap, note the following: you'll get a very weird long skinny flexing flake for your hands and see a bolt on the face above the next overlap. Clip the bolt, but don't pull up over the overlap, instead, head right and clip another bolt and you'll curve around to the belay. We got confused and pulled up that overlap (aid) and suffered through dirt and scary loose flakes. A first we thought going right at the bolts was another route, Underly Hanging Out, but that one is one overlap lower.
P3 (5.10a) From the belay pull up and left into the obvious cracks. Getting over the lip is harder than it looks involving a tight hand jam, a fist jam and something akin to humping. The guidebook describes a final sting in the tail, but it's very mild, especially if you have small cams (I used a blue alien, but there are other options).
Location
This is the southernmost climb on the Malamute. It's considered to be the Lower Malamute, but it doesn't violate the rail right-of-way.
Hike south along the top of the Malamute and follow the trail down until there's an obvious anchor beyond which the cliff pretty much ends. Rap from this anchor (50m) to a treed ledge called Meare's Island. The best option is to bring two ropes and do a single rope rap, carrying your lead rope down with you. This works well since you won't need to pull your rope and then haul the extra line back up the climb. You could get by with a single rope, but since the anchors have no chains, you would have to leave 'biners on at least one of the stations on the way down (and recover them on the way back up).
At the bottom of the rap, look left and you'll see a chain hanging from a bolt. Batman up the chain and start the first pitch from there. Alternatively, you could stop at the anchor at the start of the second pitch and skip the first one.
Hike south along the top of the Malamute and follow the trail down until there's an obvious anchor beyond which the cliff pretty much ends. Rap from this anchor (50m) to a treed ledge called Meare's Island. The best option is to bring two ropes and do a single rope rap, carrying your lead rope down with you. This works well since you won't need to pull your rope and then haul the extra line back up the climb. You could get by with a single rope, but since the anchors have no chains, you would have to leave 'biners on at least one of the stations on the way down (and recover them on the way back up).
At the bottom of the rap, look left and you'll see a chain hanging from a bolt. Batman up the chain and start the first pitch from there. Alternatively, you could stop at the anchor at the start of the second pitch and skip the first one.
3 Comments