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YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Rob Griz
New Route: Yes
Season: Spring-Fall
Page Views: 530
Submitted By: Rob Griz on Jun 3, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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Cool pic of me leading "Overhangutang".....


This route climbs the slightly overhanging corner that is above the large, horizontal roof, inside the big dihedral. Climb up easy ground in the large, left-facing corner and stem at the horizontal roof to clip the first bolt (on the right wall). Climb the inside corner, past 5 bolts, to the roof lip, sharing the final bolt with The Exfoliator. Pull the roof, and run 25' up easy terrain to the chain anchor.


Follow a large, inside corner up off the slab.


5 bolts, chain anchor on the face.

Photos of Overhangutang Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Chris Perkins on Overhangutang.  Photo by Lyle Knu...
Chris Perkins on Overhangutang. Photo by Lyle Knu...
Rock Climbing Photo: Good route, good photo (by Leo), adequate groin, m...
Good route, good photo (by Leo), adequate groin, m...

Comments on Overhangutang Add Comment
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By Leo Paik
From: Westminster, Colorado
Jun 14, 2011

Trust the slopers and the feet. It is easier than it looks. It sort of reminds me of an warmup for Supersqueeze. Fun.
By Rob Griz
From: Frisco
Aug 25, 2011

A key block in the final moves below the roof, on the inside corner, is loose. We may try to epoxy the small block in as it is a critical part of the route. Pull on it with ease.
By Will Sharp
From: Breck, CO
Jul 10, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

As of July 8 2012, some baby birds have taken up residence in the last (key) hold making the route a bit harder before you step around right at the top. It is still climbable, but you get a pinch at the top rather than a jug. They will fledge later this summer leaving the route to us again.
By percious
From: Bear Creek, CO
Jun 27, 2014
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c


Be very careful top roping this climb. The rope leading down to the follower naturally falls over a sharp edge. If the follower falls at the end of the hang, the rope can slide against that sharp edge. This is true lowering the climber as well, and in fact our rope suffered a core shot because of this.

If a bolt was added over the side of the overhang, this problem would be mitigated. Consider this a request to the first ascentionist to add that bolt. I would only add the bolt out-of-reach of the move to pull the hang and off to the right as to keep the character of the climb the same.
By Rob Griz
From: Frisco
Sep 16, 2014

No new BOLTS are necessary on this route. This is not a "top-rope" route nor is it as difficult as a proposed 5.11. Please enjoy the route as it stands, as many have before.
By Sunshine11
From: Silverthorne, CO
Oct 6, 2014

Best route I've done in the canyon so far! Get route, Rob!

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