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Overhang Rock

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Big Picture, The S 
East Face T 
Honey Badger S 
Junior Achievement T 
Missing Link S 
North Ridge, South Spire T 
Ouroboros S 
Rogue's Arete T 
Short Attention Span S 
Snake Watching S 
South Ridge of South Pinnacle T 
Thulsa Doom S 
Tits Out For The Lads S 
West Side (Story) T 
Unsorted Routes:

Overhang Rock Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 6,790'
Location: 39.9706, -105.2873 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 16,332
Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Jan 1, 2001
Forecast:
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79° | 62°
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81° | 63°
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A view of Overhang Rock from the West on Gregory C...

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  • Description 

    The Overhang Rock does not look like much from the East, but when looking back from the West it appears to loom over Bear Canyon like a guardian demanding its due. This gorgeous, huge fin holds only a fraction of the routes it could. In the mid 80s, when Boulder was deciding whether to advance into the future of climbing or succumb to the righteous protectionism of the Boulder City Council, a handfull of climber/atheletes started developing the West faces of many of the Flatiron crags. Close on the heels of Dale Goddard's Five Year Plan, the Overhang Rock saw two new additions to its then sparse development. Nothing has been added to my knowledge since 1988 leaving numerous difficult possibilities untapped. Climbing on the Overhang Rock generally fires vectorially up its yellow West face, with none of the routes running through the obvious roof system above. Numbering here begins on the left arete (North edge) with #1 being the Layton Kor classic, Rogues Arete. Climbing difficulty spans the gamut with at least one very moderate trad route (the notch) and a few more difficult lines from 5.10 to 5.12b.

    Getting There 

    Take the trail From NCAR down to the service road. Head South, and after the road winds up-hill a ways the trail to Bear Canyon will branch off into the canyon. This is near the power lines that are protected by a wire fence. After several a hundred yards or so and across the canyon from Stonehenge, follow an indistinct "trail" up to the talus field below Overhang Rock. Expect 3rd class terrain.

    Climbing Season



    Weather station 2.6 miles from here

    14 Total Climbing Routes

    ['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
    ['<=5.6',3],['5.7',1],['5.8',1],['5.9',0],['5.10',1],['5.11',1],['5.12',5],['5.13',2],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

    Classic Climbing Routes in Overhang Rock

    Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Overhang Rock:
    Junior Achievement   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad   
    Short Attention Span   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch   
    The Big Picture   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport   
    Tits Out For The Lads   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
    Missing Link   5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
    Thulsa Doom   5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 115'   
    Ouroboros   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 140'   
    Snake Watching   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 150'   
    Honey Badger   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 140'   
    Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Overhang Rock

    Featured Route For Overhang Rock
    Rock Climbing Photo: On an early attempt.

    Ouroboros 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b  Colorado : Flatirons : ... : Overhang Rock
    “The Ouroboros is an ancient symbol depicting a serpent or dragon eating its own tail. The Ouroboros often symbolizes self-reflexivity or cyclicality, especially in the sense of something constantly re-creating itself, the eternal return, and other things such as the phoenix which operate in cycles that begin anew as soon as they end. It can also represent the idea of primordial unity related to something existing in or persisting from the beginning with such force or qualities it cannot be...[more]   Browse More Classics in Colorado

    Photos of Overhang Rock Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Overhanging Rock, The Seal & The Goose as viewed f...
    BETA PHOTO: Overhanging Rock, The Seal & The Goose as viewed f...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Overhang Rock.  Climbing photography by: vandiverp...
    Overhang Rock. Climbing photography by: vandiverp...
    Rock Climbing Photo: fixed pins from rappel anchor
    BETA PHOTO: fixed pins from rappel anchor
    Rock Climbing Photo: Goose Rock, Seal Rock and Overhang Rock (left to r...
    BETA PHOTO: Goose Rock, Seal Rock and Overhang Rock (left to r...

    Comments on Overhang Rock Add Comment
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    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 22, 2016
    By George Bell
    From: Boulder, CO
    May 23, 2002
    Summit baggers note: it is just possible to rap from the top all the way to the ground with a 60m rope. The rap goes eastward from a long sling just south of the summit. If you don't have a 60m rope, you will need to do a second rap from a pine tree that you will rap through.
    By Leo Paik
    Administrator
    From: Westminster, Colorado
    May 24, 2004
    Weird thing, we rapped this with a 60m cord. It didn't touch down. Got close but had to downclimb. Maybe I got gipped on my 60m cord. Also, the rap now sports 2 slings. Also, the bolt on Chorus Line, 5.9, is a manky 1/4 inch Star-Dryven (edit, thanks for replacing it). Yee uck!
    By Bruce Hildenbrand
    Oct 9, 2005
    I replaced the anchor on top of this rock with two 3/8" x 3.5" Stainless Steel Rawl 5-piece bolts and added quick links and chains for rappel. Note, that you can hit the ground with a 70m rope but a 60m or less will require some downclimbing. There is a second rappel anchor, slings around a tree, on the east side of the ridge crest. If you are going to use this second anchor, make sure you angle a bit to the south when rappelling from the top.

    The old anchor consisted of two, old, 15-foot ling slings around a block tied into two, old fixed pins (see photo below) buried under a layer of dirt on the south side of the slung block.

    The hardware for this work was provided by the American Safe Climbing Association (www.safeclimbing.org). They appreciate your support. Also, thanks to Tony Bubb for leading Rogue's Arete to get us on top.
    By Aimee Rose
    From: Bend, or
    Apr 28, 2011
    About how long is the approach to this area? (time or distance would be great. Thx)
    By adam brink
    From: Boulder, CO
    Apr 28, 2011
    Expect a burly 45 minute hike with bad trails at the end.
    By Ted Lanzano
    From: Boulder, CO
    May 22, 2011
    All of the routes on Overhang Rock’s west face have been upgraded with half-inch, stainless steel hardware, and the old bolts and anchors have been removed and holes patched. The list of upgraded routes includes Snake Watching, Tits Out for the Lads, The Big Picture, Missing Link, Short Attention Span, and a Chorus Line.

    A special thanks to the volunteers for your awesome work - Matt Samet, Terry Murphy, Chris Weidner, Brian Lichtenheld, Dan Levison, Greg Bilinski, and Ted lanzano. Also, thanks to the Flatirons Climbing Council and OSMP for making this possible.

    The new bolts and anchors were generously provided by the Anchor Replacement Initiative (ARI) and the American Safe Climbing Association (ASCA).
    By kevin murphy
    From: Lafayette, Colorado
    May 23, 2011
    AWESOME, great work. Very unselfish of you guys.
    By Pinklebear
    Nov 7, 2011
    Five applications have been submitted to the Fixed Hardware Review Committee (FHRC) of the Flatirons Climbing Council (FCC) for the September 2011 voting cycle:

    •Two applications for new climbs, a 5.11 on the Slab and a 5.10 on Dinosaur Rock
    •Two applications to add new, lower first bolts to the existing climbs Touch Monkey, a 5.11b on Der Zerkle, Dinosaur Mountain and to Short Attention Span, a 5.11d on Overhang Rock, Bear Canyon.
    •One application to add an anchor to the existing climb Big Bob Cranks on Dinosaur Rock.

    To view and comment on these four applications, please visit flatironsclimbingcouncil.wordp...

    The vote and public meeting for this cycle will be held Tuesday, December 6 at 6:30 p.m. at The Spot gym, Boulder, Colorado. Anyone interested in voting on and discussing these applications is encouraged to attend!
    By Pinklebear
    Nov 23, 2012
    A second application has been submitted for the Autumn 2012 cycle of the Flatirons Climbing Council's Fixed Hardware Review Committee, this one for the west face of Overhang Rock. Please visit flatironsclimbingcouncil.wordp... to view the application in full, as well as comment on it.

    The public meeting and vote will be held 6:30 p.m. Wednesday January 16 at The Spot gym, Boulder, Colorado.
    By Ben Sachs
    May 20, 2013
    The best way to approach the West Face of Overhang is to walk up the Bear Canyon trail until you come to the huge boulder on the left side of the trail (the Shelf Block). Just before the boulder there is a climber's trail leading up and left into the woods. Follow the trail up past a few boulders, contouring and following a few cairns until you reach the big flat rock directly under the power line. From there, head straight up the talus (walking parallel to the cliff) for about 15 yards until you can break left through the woods onto the main talus field below the West Face. Wander across the talus to the base.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Shelf Boulder (turn here).
    Shelf Boulder (turn here).
    By AndrewSykes
    May 4, 2014
    Found a dog leash in the boulder field beneath these climbs. Looks like quite a nice (expensive) one. Contact me if you'd like it back.
    By Flatirons Climbing Council
    May 15, 2016
    An application for bolting a new route on Overhang Rock has been received by the FCC for the May 1 cycle. Details of the proposed route can be found here on the FCC site: flatironsclimbing.org/current-....

    Please feel free to post any comments you have on the application. The public meeting will be held at the Spot on June 2, 2016 at 6:30, and everyone is welcome to join and vote there.
    By Trevor V.
    From: Santa Barbara, Ca
    Nov 22, 2016
    When is the wall in the sun? Looking for some warmer spots for this week?

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