REI Community
search
Advanced
David's Castle (backside)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Dish, The T,TR 
Nose, The T,TR 
Nuclear Cottage Cheese T,TR 
Ooga Chocka T,TR 
Overhang Direct T,TR 
Stupid Roof T,TR 

Overhang Direct 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Wes Love & Clarence Hickman
Page Views: 1,348
Submitted By: chris mcguigan on Dec 3, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Davids Castle Backside Overhang Direct(5.8) Trad...

Description 

Right of Nuclear cottage cheese, crux is at the small roof. From the far left of the Back side of Davids Castle, look at the small roof and the climb is just to the right of the roof. There are two great ledges one before the crux and one after the crux to rest.

Protection 

no bolts trad or TR, two anchors at the top most TR the climb


Photos of Overhang Direct Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Davids Castle Backside   Overhang Direct(5.8) Trad...
Davids Castle Backside Overhang Direct(5.8) Trad...
Rock Climbing Photo: Davids Castle Backside  Overhang Direct(5.8) Trad ...
Davids Castle Backside Overhang Direct(5.8) Trad ...
Rock Climbing Photo: overhang direct
BETA PHOTO: overhang direct

Comments on Overhang Direct Add Comment
Show which comments
By Nathan Stegenga
From: Central, SC
Feb 9, 2017

CONDITION REPORT 
Took a big fall (20+ feet) today on this route when my gear blew right at the crux - a .75 in a small pod a little down and right from the number 1 sized crack (DON'T USE THIS EITHER) in the roof. I slipped, took a small fall of maybe two feet onto the .75, the pod blew out, and I whipped about 20 feet total onto my last bomber piece, my number 3. I placed in the pod because when I placed in the crack and pulled on the gear to test it I saw THE ENTIRE BLOCK FLEX away from the larger part of the roof. This block is about the size of a toaster oven, and I am confident that block would have gone (just like the P.O.S. pod did right next to it), and I would be real scared to see the end result of that for both myself and my belayer. The route photos on here show somebody with a number 1 placed right where I tested and saw the block flex.

I climbed back up to the crux to check for better gear and it looked pretty sparse. The pod is even worse now. There might be a decent placement for a .5 or .75 a little higher in the right-facing corner of the roof block, but it still looked suspect. It's probably fine on TR, but I have a feeling it's only a matter of time before that widow-maker pulls off and hurts somebody. I certainly do not plan on coming back to this route - at least not to lead it. If you do please be careful.
By Nate Thompson
From: Columbia, SC
Sep 20, 2016

Tried this route and took a big fall Saturday September 7, 2016. The problem is that there is little pro before the crux, so you must push through to place after the crux. When I fell I broke a flake off the area just prior to the crux. Sorry Mtn. Project fam.

The first 10-15 feet looked like I could find a place for pro, but I didn't actually place until I had gained the first ledge.

All and all this route is a little too chossy and deceptively bare. I would trad lead this with caution. Maybe I'm just sketched out, but climber beware.

Location as described on the site is accurate though.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · People · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About