|Type:||Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]|
|FA:||Wes Love & Clarence Hickman|
|Submitted By:||chris mcguigan on Dec 3, 2011|
|Comments on Overhang Direct||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Nathan Stegenga
From: Central, SC
Feb 9, 2017
Took a big fall (20+ feet) today on this route when my gear blew right at the crux - a .75 in a small pod a little down and right from the number 1 sized crack (DON'T USE THIS EITHER) in the roof. I slipped, took a small fall of maybe two feet onto the .75, the pod blew out, and I whipped about 20 feet total onto my last bomber piece, my number 3. I placed in the pod because when I placed in the crack and pulled on the gear to test it I saw THE ENTIRE BLOCK FLEX away from the larger part of the roof. This block is about the size of a toaster oven, and I am confident that block would have gone (just like the P.O.S. pod did right next to it), and I would be real scared to see the end result of that for both myself and my belayer. The route photos on here show somebody with a number 1 placed right where I tested and saw the block flex.
I climbed back up to the crux to check for better gear and it looked pretty sparse. The pod is even worse now. There might be a decent placement for a .5 or .75 a little higher in the right-facing corner of the roof block, but it still looked suspect. It's probably fine on TR, but I have a feeling it's only a matter of time before that widow-maker pulls off and hurts somebody. I certainly do not plan on coming back to this route - at least not to lead it. If you do please be careful.
By Nate Thompson
From: Columbia, SC
Sep 20, 2016
Tried this route and took a big fall Saturday September 7, 2016. The problem is that there is little pro before the crux, so you must push through to place after the crux. When I fell I broke a flake off the area just prior to the crux. Sorry Mtn. Project fam.
The first 10-15 feet looked like I could find a place for pro, but I didn't actually place until I had gained the first ledge.
All and all this route is a little too chossy and deceptively bare. I would trad lead this with caution. Maybe I'm just sketched out, but climber beware.
Location as described on the site is accurate though.