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Unsorted Routes:

Overhang Approach 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
Season: All Year
Page Views: 842
Submitted By: Davis13au on Dec 21, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: Not a good shot but the best one I have for now. ...


This one is a little harder to explain. It basically connects the main overhang in the middle of the Main Face with Balance Climbs # 1, 2, and 3. The belay point would be where those three routes end at the Army Cable route (5.0) that runs up the face. The main reason I noted it here is that it's a good one to use to link routes up to practice multi pitch on. It's easy climbing but it does run out quite a bit at the top before you can get a final piece of pro in to belay from.


It starts about halfway up the Army cable route that angles up the middle of the main face. If you hit the cable from Army Routes 1, 2, or 3 then you are in about the right spot. Aim for the left side of the main overhang. As you get to the top you'll have to shoot thru some vegetation and then find a spot to belay from. If you rappel down to the cable route again you'll have to leave some gear unless you trust the little tree that is under the overhang. You could find your way off left if you keep following the headwall or you can pick a spot on the headwall or the overhang to finish it out and top out on the Main Face.


I believe there is one bolt at the start and then after that I placed one nut under a flake and then the route runs out a ways to the top under the overhang. Set up a belay with some slings or cams.

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By Mark O'Neal
From: Nicholson, GA
Sep 7, 2015

I think what is described here is really Fat Bitches in the Sky per Dixie Craggers

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