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Overcaffeinated  

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Norman Boles, Dan Lautzenheiser, Dimitri Bevc, Brian Bennett
Page Views: 489
Submitted By: Dan Lautzenheiser on Jan 4, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: Dimitri Bevc heel-smearin' the 10c toprope between...

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Tiptoe right across a dike to clip the first bolt. Get your jittery, overcaffeinated self in order and do a few friction moves that are easier than they look to gain a right-facing corner/crack. Proceed up the crack. Then, a step up and left past 2 more bolts attains the anchor.

Location 

Starts from a sloping ledge about 200' above and right of more girly than burly.

Protection 

Gear to 1''. Small stoppers and TCU's useful


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By Vlada Matena
Aug 6, 2016
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

A nice climb. I was able to place a bomber #1 C4 Camalot (1.5 inch) as the last pro in the crack. It helped avoiding a long runout to reach the 2nd bolt.

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