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Over and Out 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Duncan Ferguson and Chris Revely,1974
Page Views: 9,364
Submitted By: Matt Bauman on Apr 28, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (215)
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Good shot of the 2nd pitch finger crack of "O...

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  • Description 

    This starts just between Over the Hill and Emerald City...up dihedral for a stem fest to a fun traverse left and up the steep face to a cool pair of cracks in a steep 25' wall to a large belay ledge (be careful of loose rocks). Continue on with the 2nd pitch finger crack of Over the Hill (5.9) or rap 100' from tree and down climb a little to the ground (60 meter rope) or continue up the somewhat tricky 2nd pitch in the obvious dihedral.


    Standard rack...tree anchor or gear under awesome finger crack (2nd pitch of Over the Hill) for a recommended finish.

    Photos of Over and Out Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Fun dihedral
    Fun dihedral
    Rock Climbing Photo: Roof variation.
    Roof variation.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Adam on Over and Out.
    Adam on Over and Out.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Fun warmup for Over the Hill.
    Fun warmup for Over the Hill.
    Rock Climbing Photo: The roof variation. No harder than the rest of the...
    The roof variation. No harder than the rest of the...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Over the Hill and Over and Out, two classic routes...
    BETA PHOTO: Over the Hill and Over and Out, two classic routes...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Fun pitch! The regular route goes left at the roof...
    Fun pitch! The regular route goes left at the roof...

    Comments on Over and Out Add Comment
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    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 26, 2017
    By Darin Lang
    Jan 1, 2001

    In addition to the options mentioned, you can also go over the roof and climb the dihedral to the left of the last pitch of Over the Hill. Maybe one or two 9-ish moves.
    By Mike Abraham
    Aug 12, 2002

    You could also climb the 5.6 second pitch (as described in the guidebooks). As I recall: follow the parallel cracks (actually corner with a parallel crack to the right) to the rotten ledge at the base of the 3rd pitch of Over the Hill. From there, either traverse off left, or climb the 3rd pitch of OtH.
    By Leo Paik
    From: Westminster, Colorado
    Apr 30, 2003

    Smells quite strongly of nitrogen-type compounds at the start of the last pitch. Beware.
    By James Balasalle
    May 8, 2003

    This is a really good route. The gear is all there and it is very interesting. We climbed the dihedral to the left of the last pitch of Over the Hill. I thought there were some moves on that pitch that were a little harder than 5.8 (especially the first pitch). But the gear is good at these points, so it's not that much of a problem. The upper dihedral pitch is great pitch... varied moves and I thought they were decently thought-provoking. Also the double cracks at the top of the first pitch are pretty fun. Granted, they're short... but they're good.

    I would definitely do this climb again.
    By Bryan Lechner
    From: Denver, CO
    Jun 3, 2003

    The Over and Out - Over the Hill link-up is one of the best 2 pitch outings I've done! I highly recommend it!! Pitch 1 has great stemming down low, a neat mini-traverse left under a roof and then 15 ft of super-positive laybacking to the belay. Pitch 2 looks harder than 5.9 from the belay but finger-locks and jugs seem to present themselves just at the right time. The best 9 pitch i've done in Eldo. You'll see what i mean when you get up there....
    By Ivan Rezucha
    From: Fort Collins, CO
    Jun 4, 2003

    Instead of moving left at the top of the initial dihedral, you can climb directly over the roof. It's not hard (5.7? Easier?), and has gear, but the big flake that forms the roof is a little suspect. Just above is a 1 1/4" angle, so it's an old variation.
    By shad O'Neel
    Jun 12, 2003

    Combined with the 5.9 finger crack this is one of the best moderates ever! Sucks up small nuts like a baby squirrel!
    By Ernie Port
    From: Boulder, Colorado
    Jun 19, 2003

    Led this today and it rocks! Enjoyed every move. My new favorite (8) in the park. Go left at the end of the initial dihedral and climb the beautiful 20' crack next to the upper dihedral. Really fun moderate climbing. Definitely recommend linking P1 & 2. Use a long runner under the roof to eliminate rope drag. The weather forced us to miss the upper pitch, but plan on going back for the full experience real soon.
    By Ernie Port
    From: Boulder, Colorado
    Jun 19, 2003

    Check new favorite (8) Pitch.
    By Scott Bilyeu
    Aug 5, 2003

    What a great route!!! The first pitch is just fun moves with great gear. The hand traverse is pretty wild and then feast your eyes on the sweet 20-foot hand crack. Jam that or run the finger crack in the corner. Take your pick. For the second pitch, I've done both the 5.8 dihedral and the 5.9 finger crack up the face. Both are good but the 5.9 is amazing. Rossiter's book calls it one of the best 5.9s anywhere; I'd agree. The thing eats mid-size nuts and Aliens. The 5.8 is super fun too, though I recall a couple of moves that felt a bit harder. Enjoy!
    By Brian Weinstein
    Feb 23, 2004
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    As most have already stated...the final pitch of Over the Hill is not to be missed.
    By TBlom
    Sep 13, 2004

    If you do the upper pitch of Over the Hill or the dihedral to the left, there is a very quick descent to the north along the ledge system. Go about 150 feet N, when the ledge begins to go back upwards, look for an easy downclimb (4th class); 1 or 2 moves gets you to safe ground. I think the whole descent took about 5 minutes, the quickest I've ever had in Eldo. The finger crack is awesome with good stances before the cruxes; exciting moves.
    By Kev007
    Oct 22, 2004
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    Climbed this on 10/17. The pro is excellent and the climbing was straightforward. Was definitely worth the "long" approach, at least according to Eldo standards.
    By Joseph Proulx
    Nov 8, 2004

    The dihedral left of P2 of OtH is a stellar pitch. I get the feeling it's underrated because of its proximity to the OtH finger crack. If leading Eldo 5.9s is a bit beyong you (as for me), then be sure to continue on up this pitch. It is either blemished or enhanced by a slightly spooky bit near the end above a small roof, where the crack become more of a seam. Almost the entire route is good fun climbing on really solid rock with great views.
    By George Bell
    From: Boulder, CO
    Aug 30, 2006

    I didn't think the climbing was entirely straightforward. Which of the cracks do you follow about 40' up, for example? Also, there is a balancy lieback move about 15' up. But a great climb nonetheless!

    Our 60m rope easily made it from the tree, no downclimbing.
    By Brenda Leach
    From: Sandy, Utah
    Sep 28, 2006

    The 2nd pitch finger crack of Over the Hill (5.9) is a great way to finish Over and Out. I used a mostly small RPs with a few Aliens to protect it. Quite a nice pitch.
    By John Korfmacher
    From: Fort Collins, CO
    Nov 13, 2006

    IMHO one of the best moderates in Eldo. Two caveats:

    • The first good gear is about 15-20 feet up, but it's not hard to get there. The rest of the placements on this route are bomber and have good stances. Fun, smooth climbing all the way to the belay.
    • The belay at the top of the 5.6 corner is very chossy. There is currently a large pile of jagged debris at the exit of the corner. You can set a very nice gear anchor in the cracks below the big slab above, but use the slings on the tree instead. Although there's a bit more drag this way, you will avoid knocking the choss off with the rope. A note to the committee folks--bringing some of the rubble down might be a worthy off-season project.

    You'll regret it if you don't do the 5.9 crack pitch above (P2 of Over the Hill). Sustained with very good pro, some thought-provoking frictiony moves, and holds that appear as if by magic, at just the right time and place. One of the coolest 5.9s anywhere.
    By Adam Berger
    May 26, 2009
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    My 60m rope did not reach the ground from the tree and we had to down climb. Luckily a friend was there to give us hand. Thanks, Chris.
    By percious
    From: Bear Creek, CO
    May 27, 2009
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    At the top of the second pitch (of Over the Hill) The belay tree has died and no longer wears the mark of countless rappel slings. You may downclimb easily (climber's left) To another rappel tree, or continue right on down. There is one 5.1 exposed move on the downclimb.
    By Rodger Raubach
    Mar 16, 2011
    rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    A varied climb, but quite a bit of liebacking. A comparison: harder than the first pitch of Redguard, the "Birdwalk."
    By prod. Kenny
    From: Boulder, Co
    Jul 10, 2011

    Great Eldo 5.8. The first pitch is pretty straightforward with good gear. Pitch 2 is not to be missed, I'd still give it a 5.8, but the gear is a little trickier.
    By Dankasaurus
    From: Lyons, CO
    Jun 14, 2016
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    The downclimb: if you end up belaying while standing on choss, you don't do the 2nd pitch for whatever reason, and perhaps the wall is festooned with many parties including a party on the OTH bolts, then there is a terrible choss traverse and downclimb waiting for you.

    The terrible part is more about knocking rocks off than it is technical difficulty, but the technical downclimb moves are very exposed, and the poor trees are all dead. Please be careful of others down below, and be careful for yourself too.

    The downclimb from P1 is to be avoided. Finish this climb or OTH.
    By Joe Trabucco
    From: Wheat Ridge, CO
    Mar 4, 2017

    Got a green Metolius UL Master Cam 6 with 'jt' on inside of sling stuck just before end of the first pitch. 4102001866 thanks.
    By D. Scott Clark
    From: Boulder
    Mar 26, 2017
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    Fun climb with great protection, interesting and makes you think. Try not to get your rope stuck on Over the Hill P1 if you rap from the rings after P1.

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