REI Community
Lost Angel
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
5.9 Crack T 
AAArete S 
Archangel S 
Autumn S 
Awakenings S 
Be Here Now T,S 
Boy's World T 
Caterer, The S 
China Doll T 
China Doll (P1-2, free) T,S 
Crazy Wisdom T,S 
Digital Dilemma (a.k.a. Johnny and Stella's route) S 
Disneyland S 
Divination S 
Divination Direct S 
Drop Zone S 
Dynamometer S 
Dyno Arête S 
Earth Voyage S 
Freedom S 
Fright Grooves T 
Host, The S 
Hunky Monkey S 
Interzone T 
Jungle Blues From Jupiter T 
Killing in the Name T 
Knowoneness T 
Life on Mars S 
Long Dong Dihedral T 
Long Dong with Zentropa Finish T,S 
Lost in Tradslation T 
Naked Lunch S 
Night Grooves S 
Outta This World T 
Podophobia S 
Primal Cinema S 
Rage Against The Machine T,S 
Raise the Titanic S 
Rock Odyssey S 
Rush S 
Shape Shifters T 
Shunyata T 
Signs of Life S 
Spiders From Mars T 
Standard Route S 
Strange Cargo S 
Take the Power Back T 
Technical Remote Viewing S 
Time Traveler T,TR 
Vaino Step, The S 
Variation to Hunky Monkey S 
Weenie Roast T 
Wide Crack T 
Zentropa T,S 

Outta This World 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Chris Weidner, June 18, 2015
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 413
Submitted By: Chris Weidner on Jun 19, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
A view from the side.

Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This variation links the upper corner of Jungle Blues From Jupiter into the dihedral (and crux) of Spiders From Mars via a wild roof crack traverse (11d). The 12a rating comes from The Vaino Step start, which I thought would provide the least amount of rope drag, plus it's the hardest of three logical starts (The Host, The Vaino Step, Jungle Blues...). The other two starts yield an exciting 11d.

Stick clip the first bolt, pull a hard boulder problem, then clip two more bolts (skip the second one that's too far left) with long slings before merging with JBFJ. Decipher the perplexing traverse that leads straight into the crux of SFM.

Finish as per Spiders From Mars: top out the thin corner, step left to an easy corner (crippling drag unless you're careful) for about 20 feet, and move back right to a two-bolt anchor.

Protection 

It is well-protected throughout.

1 each: #0 Metolius - #3 Camalot, a few medium nuts.
2 each: #0.4 Camalot - #0.75 Camalot.
5 draws, 8 long slings including two double-length.


Photos of Outta This World Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: From below, no route line.
From below, no route line.
Rock Climbing Photo: The route from below.
BETA PHOTO: The route from below.

Comments on Outta This World Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About