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Excellent, steep face climbing on P5.
This route is a contender for the steepest 5.10 in RMNP. The last 3 pitches follow fun, wild and airy climbing at a shockingly moderate grade. At present, there are some crumbles on the dihedral pitch, but they should clean up well with a few ascents.
1) Climb up easy-ish ground to the depression below the corner system setting a belay where the wall steepens, directly below a dihedral system, 5.7, 250 feet.
2) Follow the corner system for about 50 feet until it runs into a small roof, with three parallel dihedrals, traverse to the leftmost of the three climb up into it and angle back right to a comfortable belay below the crack system that leads to the base of the corner, 5.10-, 140 feet.
3) Fire up the crack system for a fantastic pitch of steep face and crack climbing. Fear not, gear and holds will always appear. Belay on another nice ledge at the base of the steep dihedral, 5.10+, 200 feet.
4) Climb the overhung dihedral until it ends and deposits you on a little ledge. Step right, climb through a small bulge and head back left to belay on yet another nice ledge below the right side of the summit roofs, 5.10+, 150 feet.
5) Wander up a steep juggy face to a very small right facing corner on the right side of the roofs. Make difficult moves to get established in the corner and pull onto the summit, 5.10 (5.9R), 100 feet.
Start left of Peekaboo Dihedral
at the first rocky step in the gully. Look for the prominent, steep, right-facing corner system, about 600 feet up, below the right side of the summit roofs. That dihedral system is your goal.
The easy descent follows the gully just west of the formation.
Double rack through #3 Camalot.
Corners on P2. Take your pick....
Nice cracks and face climbing for 200 feet on P3.
Looking up at the P4 dihedral.
Sep 9, 2013
This is a great route. The little bit of extra walking it takes to get there (30-45 minutes past the base of the Petit) is handsomely rewarded with steep, sustained 5.10 climbing. A few micro cams are nice to have. The easy descent follows the gully just west of the formation.