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Big Snag Wall
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Men are Apples, Women are Pears S 
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Outer Space  

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Kiser and Kammereck 1996
Page Views: 133
Submitted By: Curtveld on Feb 3, 2017

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Fiddling in a nut on the bouldery start to Outer S...

Lower Main Wall/East Buttress Trails Re-opened MORE INFO >>>

Description 

One of the better 5.8 cracks at Erie, though comparison to the uber-classic Leavenworth splitter is a stretch. Starts steep and bouldery, then rolls over a bit with some smeary footing. The crack width is highly variable, occasionally widening enough for finger or hand jams. The leader might want a nut tool, as this climb seems to collect leaf debris.

Location 

Central Big Snag Wall – the obvious continuous seam/crack left of the bolted lines.

Protection 

100% gear protected until final chains. A single set of nuts and cams to 3” should do. Placements are adequate, though some are shallow and insecure, so not a great beginner lead.


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By Curtveld
Feb 3, 2017

GoPro prespective:
By Firenze
May 31, 2017

Really enjoyed this route.

I'd contend that the pro on this route was pretty good; I felt there were plenty of places for gear, and most of the climb is 5.7 with stable stances offering comfort and time to find the right spot/piece.

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