Outer Mongolia Rock Climbing
Looking West from Outer Mongolia. Photo by Blitzo.
Outer Mongolia is comprised of several large formations north of the trail that leads to the North Wonderland. The Middle Kingdom is south of Outer Mongolia.
Siberia is the largest formation and its southeast face is easily visible from the trail. There are many easy and moderate (5.8 - 5.10-) multipitch face/slab climbs that are well protected by bolts and pitons on the southeast face. These climbs are fun and the view at the top is all encompassing. Yasmine Bleeth
(5.9) and Dos Chichis
(5.9+) are two of the best here.
Directly north of Siberia are two east - west running gullies; the Siberian Corridor and the Khan Corridor respectively. These gullies are best accessed by scrambling over boulders in a north - south wash directly west of Siberia. Genghis Khan
(5.11b) and The Mongolian Lieback (5.12a) are two stellar climbs on an overhanging north face in the Khan Corridor.
More routes for this area are described in The Wonderland Guide by Alan Bartlett.
The approach to Outer Mongolia begins on the Boy Scout Trail to Indian Cove in the Key's Corner parking area. Follow this trail for about two miles (take the right branch heading northeast towards the Wonderland of Rocks) until the large face of Siberia is visible from the trail. Walk north for 1/4 mile to reach the crags.
Weather station 8.2 miles from here
43 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',19],['1 Star',18],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Outer Mongolia
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Outer Mongolia
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Outer Mongolia:
Toby 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 100' Siberia
Featured Route For Outer Mongolia
Genghis Khan 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c California
: Joshua Tree National Park
: ... : Khan Corridor
The route ascends discontinuous vertical and horizontal cracks on an overhanging north face. It begins on a boulder 10' beneath the first of four bolts. Above the bolt a few moves on loose rock leads to a splintered finger / hand crack that ends close to the second bolt. Face climbing between the second and fourth bolts leads to another crack that ends near a bolted rappel station....[more] Browse More Classics in California
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Siberia. Photo by Blitzo.
Outer Mongolia panorama, from Land's End. Photo by...
Outer Mongolia-Siberia from West Mongolia.
BETA PHOTO: The view from the trail: the large formation on th...
BETA PHOTO: The Kamchatka Block, showing Broken Dreams, 11b. C...
BETA PHOTO: Outer Mongolia from the trail. Dos Chichis (5.10a)...
By Nick Y.
Apr 1, 2012
Climbed in Siberia on 3/30. Updates for "Getting There": There aren't any signs at the parking area for 'Key's Corner'; instead, it's marked as 'Boy Scout Trail'. Hike out follows the trail as described. The turn off for the crag is now denoted by a trail marker that explicitly states there is a climber's trail for 'Outer Mongolia'. Took roughly 40 minutes to get to said marker hiking at a decent pace. Plan 10-30 minutes for the scramble up, depending on how oriented you already are with the area.