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10 - The Cookie Cliff
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Outer Limits 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 190'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jim Bridwell and Jim Orey, 1971.
Page Views: 21,251
Submitted By: Blitzo on Oct 16, 2006  with updates from Goran Lynch

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (260)
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Grant Hiskes on "Outer Limits". Photo by...

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>


A true Yosemite Classic! This climbs the beautiful crack to the left of "Elevator Shaft", for two pitches. Traverse right at the top of the second pitch.

People usually do the first pitch, then rappel.


Left of "Elevator Shaft".

Run laps on pitch one with a single 70m rope, or a single 60m rope if the belay is bumped up to the base of the Elevator Shaft.


Pro to 3.5"

Photos of Outer Limits Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Angela on Outer limits
Angela on Outer limits
Rock Climbing Photo: Charlie cruises pitch 1
Charlie cruises pitch 1
Rock Climbing Photo: Pavel starting up the first pitch
Pavel starting up the first pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: Grant Hiskes on "Outer Limits". Photo by...
Grant Hiskes on "Outer Limits". Photo by...
Rock Climbing Photo: Not even halfway? A gloriously long pitch!
Not even halfway? A gloriously long pitch!
Rock Climbing Photo: Outer Limits a long time ago
Outer Limits a long time ago
Rock Climbing Photo: DK leading Outer Limits
DK leading Outer Limits
Rock Climbing Photo: Robby Balls walking the 1st pitch. Photo: Kevin Um...
Robby Balls walking the 1st pitch. Photo: Kevin Um...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 1 of Outer Limits.
Pitch 1 of Outer Limits.

Comments on Outer Limits Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 26, 2017
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Jun 6, 2007

It's to the left of elevator shaft if you're facing the rock.
By Kevin Friedrich
Oct 28, 2008

3 #2 Cams and 2 #3 Cams. Glorious.
By Ian G.
From: PDX, OR
Apr 24, 2009
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Geez...I took three #3's up this and wish I had brought two more :0
By Colin Simon
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 28, 2009

This climb makes my balls drop!

By Dynomight510
Sep 11, 2009
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Steep, sustained and powerful. Thankfully its hand size. Solid for the grade.
By Osprey Overhang
From: ...
Dec 15, 2009

Run laps on pitch one with a single 70m rope, or a single 60m rope if the belay is bumped up to the base of the Elevator Shaft.
By chuck claude
From: Flagstaff, Az
Jan 14, 2010

its a great climb. Doing the 2nd pitch going to the left is also very good.
By tallmark515
From: San Francisco
Mar 12, 2010

P1 is an instant classic, bring three hand size pieces, if you're really scratching for gear, you can probably squeeze in a few fist sized pieces too. P1 seems about .10a, didn't do p2.
By George K. Watson
From: Nederland, CO
Jul 10, 2010

Beautiful route. If there is a crux, it's low down at a little pod area and then the thing keeps going and going and going at hand size. A fistful of hand size cams enables you to pro this superbly.
By Ken Trout
From: Golden, CO
Jan 31, 2011

In the Sierra Club's mountaineering journal, Ascent, 1973, Jim Bridwell proposed the use of letter grades in The Innocent, The Ignorant, And The Insecure.

His examples for 5.10c thin cracks were Outer Limits (p2), Lunatic Fringe, Hardly Pinnacle, High Quality, Slack Center, English Breakfast, Sacherer-Fredricks, Hot Line (p1 & p2), and Mental Block (P1).

Pitch one of Outer Limits made the example list for 5.10b thin cracks, along with Gripper, Anathema, Easy Streaks, and New Dimensions (P1).
By claytown
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 10, 2011

wow. I mean, really... WOW! That is one awesome climb! Great hands for sooo long. Awesome and absolutely bombproof gear. You could take a piece or two that is between #2 and #3 camalot for the hands section as some of the #3s were pretty tight. However you protect it, enjoy some sick, bomber jamming!
By Aerili
From: Los Alamos, NM
Sep 13, 2011

I found the "perfect 10a hands" up higher on p1 to be the crux: insecure off-hands for a looong ways in my case! The shorter, 10b crux down lower allowed tight hands and was easier to get through.

You get rests on this route, but many of them are what I would call "active rests"!
By Colin Brochard
From: San Francisco
Nov 26, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Amazing route! Sooo close to the send, but alas the widening right leaning crack at the end wore me down just before the last rest. One hang. 10c seems dead on for me and my biggish hands, surprising that the consensus is leaning soft..
By Drew Marshall
Dec 20, 2013
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

don't skip the second pitch! It is rad.
By Bruce Hildenbrand
Jun 19, 2014

BITD you really couldn't protect the 2nd pitch traverse. There was a fixed pin or two, but they kept falling out and they really only protected the leader. If the second blew the 5.10c moves they were looking at a 25'+ swing into and hopefully, not onto, the Elevator Shaft.
By Reed Gustavsen
From: Van Life, USA
Jan 28, 2015
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

first pitch is a total solid 5.10! great fun fingers down low and most beautiful hands up high. single rack will do with an extra #2 BD cam.. nuts not really needed. fixed alien 10 feet below P1 anchors. maybe lead it twice, too good to rush!
By Michael Dom
From: Seattle
Dec 13, 2015
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Bring your 3 inch gear, you will be happy with the more you have. You will be happy regardless though.
By Ben Horton
Jun 26, 2017

On lead, it felt pretty pumpy, mostly just because it's sustained. If you like to have gear every 10 feet, take lots of #2's and 2 #3's. (Save them for higher up) To me, the "crux" was the middle third of the climb where it's supposed to be easier, but I have giant hands and wasn't getting hand jams until the top 10 feet. (I can hand jam #3's)

On TR, I realized that I was overly stressed on my onsight attempt because I was out of gear... it's all 10a moves, but a LOT of them. The sustained nature of the climb makes it 10b in my book.

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