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Laddin's Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Laddin Sane T,TR 
First Aid T,TR 
Gorilla Traverse T,TR 
Laddins Chimney/OW T,TR 
Laddins Problems, Far Right T,TR 
Off the Wall T,TR 
Out to Lunch T,TR 
Pullup T,TR 
Snot Nose T,TR 

Out to Lunch 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: TR Gahan Haskins mid 1970's FLA Mack Johnson
New Route: Yes
Season: The wall seeps in winter and after rain.
Page Views: 34
Submitted By: Mack Johnson on Jun 26, 2017

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Description 

The upper of the two traverse cracks on the Laddin's' main face. Start on a short slab, climb a groove to a pedestal, protect, and launch. Finish up a short hand-fist crack that is one of the finishes to Gorilla Traverse.

Location 

Right side of the main face, just before the cliff gets shorter. Start is below an arête called Snot Nose (5.10+?)

Protection 

cams to 3", some nuts. Rope drag potential.


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By Mack Johnson
Jun 26, 2017

I led this with John Goolrick before cams were on the scene. A hex and bomber opposed nuts were the pro. I committed to the traverse, pumped out and took a "stimulating" pendulum. I led it a couple of years later after developing a bit more technique.

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