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Echo Cove - South Face
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Out on a Limb 

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Alf Randall and Dave Tucker, February 1987
Season: Gets sunshine
Page Views: 1,408
Submitted By: Tony B on Dec 27, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (26)
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Joshua Tree


This route lies on the right (east)- most solid buttress of the South Face of the Echo Cove Rocks. It is approached via a few slab moves to a small ledge. Climb this line of 6 bolts on the rounded, bulging arete to the top. The crux is down low, starting off of the ledge with a huge high-step to get feet above the bulge. The handholds here are small and sharp. The route felt like 5.10c to me, but will be far harder for those far shorter. Flexibility might make up for height until such point that the good hand-hold can not be reached.

The belay up top is well set with large cams and/or hexes and small tricams. There are other possibilities too.

To descend, walk/scramble off to the climber's right (east) then south by a big "potato-chip" looking boulder, and the back West toward the base.


6 bolts, pro to 3" for an anchor

Photos of Out on a Limb Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Tony Bubb gets established on the main face of 'Ou...
Tony Bubb gets established on the main face of 'Ou...
Rock Climbing Photo: Out on a Limb (5.10b), Joshua Tree NP
BETA PHOTO: Out on a Limb (5.10b), Joshua Tree NP
Rock Climbing Photo: Chris is Out on a Limb (c) Scott Nomi.
Chris is Out on a Limb (c) Scott Nomi.
Rock Climbing Photo: Tony Bubb is sitting 'Out On A Limb' (10b sandbag)...
Tony Bubb is sitting 'Out On A Limb' (10b sandbag)...
Rock Climbing Photo: I take no credit for this photo as a friend "...
I take no credit for this photo as a friend "...
Rock Climbing Photo: Chris working through the steep bit (c) Scott Nomi...
Chris working through the steep bit (c) Scott Nomi...

Comments on Out on a Limb Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 17, 2017
By Locker
From: Yucca Valley, CA
Mar 8, 2004
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

The start as mentioned by Tony B's discription is truly the shit. Height, flexability, bad gas, and a zit or two makes it difficult at best. Beyond that it remains tough but fun as all get out. There is a small boulder off to the right when facing your partner that can easily and safely be slung for an anchor. Pro works as well in the mid sizes in particular. I lean towards the 5.10c a bit that Tony spoke of. Either that or 5.9+ (Jtree special)
By Locker
From: Yucca Valley, CA
May 20, 2004
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Big D and I did this on top rope yesterday. Cams, tri-cams work fine.You can place most any size somewhere as well as slinging an area or two. I have led this thing twice and for some reason had more difficulty doing it on a top rope. That makes no sense to me. But little does. The weather has been perfect. Nice that so many have left........
By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Dec 4, 2007

5.9 A0. Move off the ledge is a showstopper if you can't reach the ok pinch/sidepull. Stretch, grow a few inches, etc, or do what I did, grab that first bolt and yard through. Remainder of the climbing was generic Josh low angle face/slab.
By jd4567
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 22, 2009

Vogel is right, the start is basically impossible if you are under 5'11. Worth aiding through the first move to superfun climbing above.
By Jeff Dunbar
From: Charlotte, NC
Mar 16, 2009

Tried this for the first time today. I'm 5'8" and the start would require me to highstep my foot to my navel and then stand on it. With no hands. 10b? Sheesh...
By ShaunG Gregg
From: SF, CA
Nov 26, 2009

Hard to start if you are shorter. When I got to the scary mantle I realized why the climb was dubbed Out on a Limb. Not much fun falling from the mantle above your bolt.
By tallmark515
From: San Francisco
Nov 30, 2009
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Fortunately I'm 6'4" and felt that the start was, although powerful, very doable. This route was thrilling and balancy at the surprise crux mantle just below the last bolt.

Mantle was a bit scary and bolt is ~3ft below your feet when making the move.
By Chris Owen
From: Big Bear Lake
Dec 27, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I give it 5.10b A0 - couldn't boulder through the opening move and had to use the first bolt for aid, but I'm old and stiff and high steps are a thing of the past, not sure it would've made any difference anyway as I'm 5'-11".

Crux reminded me of the crux of Figures on a Landscape.

Will S; low angle? Maybe you did it before the big 'quake...?

It's a great route.
By Joe Hunt
From: Costa Mesa, CA
Mar 18, 2011

10b cheating. I'm 5'10" but with a 6" cheater stone 6'4". ;) Largo said it was "a jug haul."
By T.J. Esposito
From: San Diego, CA
Jan 9, 2012

Took me a good 20 mins to figure out the easiest start beta, keep reading if you want it- if you can deathgrip half-tips crimps as sidepulls you can high-step the skirt (which looks like the most obvious solution); otherwise, pinch/hug the skirt (there are some ridges you can undercling on) and build your left leg up on the ramp underneath the bulge. Then the fun part, right heel-hook next to the polished notch in the skirt and that will keep you on the rock (in addition to pulling right-hand on the sidepull crimps) while you reach up to the little bulgy flake thing.

I'm not usually one for posting advanced beta but if you get frustrated, this is what worked best for me (and didn't feel impossibly hard either).

If you're TRing, you can pull up on a draw on the first bolt, and clip the rope on second bolt to have a nice directional to prevent swinging if you slip).
By Jan Tarculas
From: Riverside, Ca
Feb 23, 2013
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

5.10bish with A0 for the first bolt. I'm 5'6 and I can see the move going if I was over 6 foot tall and can reach the left hand side pull and step on the skirt
By Jesse Wilfley
May 17, 2017
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13

I am 5-9+ but not 5-10 and the start matched with missing a bolt at the top was scary! At the time I wasn't used to painted bolt hangers, something to be reminded of! Hard and exposed (for me at least!)

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