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Torture Chamber
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Crack in Groove T,TR 
Cracky Face TR 
Dos Gorditos T,TR 
Final Finger TR 
Gracie's Dihedral T,TR 
Left of Roof -- Three Variations 
Nemesis Northeast Face TR 
Out of the Horse's Mouth T,TR 
Roofus, The T,S,TR 
S-Crack TR 
Sagas 50 T,TR 
Some boulder problem with a crack 
Torture Chamber Traverse 
Tree Roof TR 
Unnamed 5.9 T,TR 
West Crack TR 
West Flake TR 
WTF T 

Out of the Horse's Mouth 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 781
Submitted By: Jason Platt on Aug 10, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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A view of most of the route.

Description 

Start using the crack system under the left roof. Once you reach the arete traverse to the right crack system by pulling around a small arete. Then climb to right crack to just beneath the roofs. Pull up between the roofs to top out. The crux is the top out where the feet run out. Good variety of movements and features for such a short climb at this grade.

Location 

About 30 feet east (downhill) from Nemesis Tower, look for the two roofs that look a little like a mouth.

Protection 

A few small-medium cams will be fine to lead it or a top rope can be easily set up with gear.


Comments on Out of the Horse's Mouth Add Comment
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By Vardan Ter-Antonyan
From: Fort Collins, CO
Aug 11, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Nice route Jason, gotta climb it one of these days. Does the thin vertical crack on the right side of the picture (where the green bush is) have a name and rating? Looks interesting.
By Jason Platt
Aug 11, 2014

It does look interesting, and I'm sure it has been climbed. I didn't get around to it, since I was soloing on this outing and that looked in the 10 range to me.
By Vardan Ter-Antonyan
From: Fort Collins, CO
Aug 12, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Definitely looks like a straight up finger crack (at least a 10). I'm gonna try to trad lead it this Sunday after trying your route. I'm pretty sure it has been climbed before of course. Thanks for replying.
By Ryan-Nelson
From: Fort Collins, CO
Aug 13, 2014

All the routes at Torture Chamber have names and grades already.

There is a route on Horsetooth Mountain already called Straight Out of the Horse's Mouth put up in the '90s by the great Craig Luebben.

I would suggest that both of you remove your additions to Torture Chamber.

If you're going to add routes to MP, then at least reference the proper resources. Horan's guide has detailed info about the Torture Chamber or you may contact anyone on the NC3 Board.
By Jason Platt
Aug 14, 2014

I'm not claiming any first ascent or anything. I'm just adding fun climbs so that others even know that they exist. If you have any updates, feel free.
By Vardan Ter-Antonyan
From: Fort Collins, CO
Aug 16, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I'm with Jason on this one! Bob Horan has a bouldering guide. These routes are not bouldering routes, these are rock faces, so they can not possibly be in that guidebook. I call BS. We are climbing and naming these routes and grading them so that people can come and climb them. We are not claiming FAs, we are not some amateur jerks who just want to be more important than we are. If these routes stay unnamed and ungraded, no one will climb them. If you are jealous, you should try to climb one that's not on the list here on MP and name it yourself. If you have proof that these routes have different names, we will gladly change the names, and just because there is a route with that name on a Horsetooth Mountain doesn't mean there can't be another route somewhere else named the same way. There are in fact a lot of examples of different routes having the same exact name and that's totally fine.
By tkessel
From: Windsor,CO
Nov 23, 2016
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Fun little route!