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Out of the Galleys 

Hueco: V9- Font: 7C

   
Type:  Boulder, 12'
Original:  Hueco: V9- Font: 7C [details]
FA: Ethan Y.
Page Views: 294
Submitted By: Ethan Y on Dec 24, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: battleship boulder-front

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Description 

The crux of this problem is in the bottom section of overhang. This is the most complex climbing sequence I have ever pulled through, and I have been unable to pull off three(!)of the individual moves since I miraculously pulled through on the first ascent. Not sure what happened, everything just clicked. Starts on two dubious underclings and feet on microedges in the viscious overhanging dihedral. Crimps inside the overhang, sidepulls out left, toehooks, drop knees, and kneebars all play a part in getting to the jug leading to the poop deck finish. No clue about the grade, this is probably the hardest thing I've ever done, but when it went down it was a bit of an afterthought

Location 

low start to poop deck

Protection 

pads


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