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Out of Sticks S 
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Out of Sticks 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: lightner jr, schoffl and schoffl
Page Views: 953
Submitted By: richard magill on Apr 12, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. MORE INFO >>>


Awesome steep line that I found to be extremely challenging. The main thing I noted was that it simply did not look probable to pull this off at a 12a grade. You get under a bunch of roofs and hard looking stuff but if you just force yourself to believe, you will find a nice 5.11 (or maybe 12a) sequence to bring you up to the next improbable stance. Keep believing!


This is one route to the right of Monkey Love, which is fairly easy to spot because it is all threads.


9 clips to anchors, including 1 or 2 threads. My guide indicates this was last rebolted in 1997, but when I did it in 2005 I didn't note any apparent rust on the bolts.

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By Matt Robertson
Apr 12, 2007

New bolts as of early '07.

Devious and sustained, with multiple cruxes.

Perhaps harder than Caveman and nearly as good.
By Aaron Hartig
May 18, 2011
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Found this route to be quite strong for the grade. maybe it was because i didnt have any lunch but none the less amazing route great crux, or 2
By RJ Ryan
From: Cambridge, MA
Mar 11, 2014

Very cool route! It just keeps coming.

Note, as of 3/9/2014 the anchor had 3 rusty oval carabiners on it. They are probably fine but really do not inspire confidence.
By Will McNeill
From: Denver, CO
Jan 1, 2017
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Apparently a hold broke off the low crux, bumping the grade to 7b/12b

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