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By Alex Shainman
Jan 21, 2016
This comment (rant) is in reference to the formation between the Out of Sight and PhD boulders...on its north face, specifically the Arete which is just to the left of the classic Unknown corner crack.
Who is the DOUCHEBAG who "tried" to replace the 1st and 2nd pre-existing compression bolts and apparently added a bolt higher on the right side of the arete? (the opposite (left) side of the Arete has another pre-existing compression bolt which was not replaced)
I say "tried" to replace because it looked to me like they didn't know WTF they were doing...They snapped the 2nd bolt off, scarred the location and drilled a new bolt 6-8" to the right. The 1st pre-existing compression bolt is still there, with a new bolt also to its right. And now there is a big fat bolt just left of the crack, 2/3rds way up around where it goes OW...it's right in front of you while climbing the crack!
Seems to me and I may be wrong since this was my first time to this boulder, but said DOUCHEBAG took it upon themselves to "establish" a new lead. I assume the Arete route goes up a couple bolts and then veers left to the opposite side where ther's a crux to the top. At least the original Arete bolted-lead didn't totally encroach on that sweet crack, which is now marred by that bolt. Pathetic!!!
You really did a disservice to this area! Why not be useful and replace the corroded mixed metal time bombs on something like PhD (at least the anchor)! Mt Woodson is RAD! Nobody cares if you lead that stupid arete variation that you bolted. You detracted from one of the sweetest routes of any grade on the entire mountain!
Woodson is really a toprope, solo and bouldering area anyways. It's cool that a lot of boulders have bolt anchors, although some didn't have bolts on top for many ground up proud solo first ascents. Just toprope it and enjoy it! If you know how to, take it upon yourself to replace older corroded bolts/hangers with new 100% stainless steel...that's way more respectable. Preserve this classic and historical SoCal climbing area! Don't ruin it!
Jan 23, 2016
|My understanding is that it's the same fool that threw some bolts on the slab next to hamburger crack. When they were chopped, the report was that they were totally unsafe/wrong size/etc. Don't know the gents name, but some of us are calling him "cigar guy". I've always hated clipping bolts in general, because of this very thing - you have no idea who placed them, and if they know what they're doing or not. I trust a nut that I placed way more.|
By Ben May
From: Escondido, CA
Apr 8, 2016
Hey fellers. So this d-bag... what does he look like? He's a fan of cigars? I'll help keep an eye out. I absolutely can't stand the thought of a bunch of jackasses just going out and doing whatever they want to these climbs. Call me if you want.