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Out of Order 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 3 pitches, 165'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: John Lesko, Brad Johnson
Page Views: 316
Submitted By: Muscrat on Jul 5, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

This is really one of the best, and often overlooked, lines on the main wall. 3 pitches of great exposure, wild moves (especially the 2nd pitch), and good protection make this a classic.
The crux is low and sandbagged, but the good news is it is well protected and gets easier quickly. The roof is really fun, one of those pitches you just want to run laps on. DO.
P1) 4 bolts. The crux is right at the first bolt; a small cam can be helpful between bolt 1 & 2. (10.b)
P2) 3 bolts. Head up the face past 2 bolts, clip the bolt which protects the airy but easier than it looks roof move, and up to the anchor. (5.9)
P3) 3 bolts A little dirty, especially after rain, but fun pitch. Bring tat for the anchor, it is often old, ratty, or gone. (5.7)

Location 

The line of bolts directly at the base of the roof/dihedral to the right of Finger Gag. It's possible to rap from P3 to the top of P1 with a 70m. The webbing on P3 is often missing/useless.

Protection 

4 draws, bolted anchors. A small cam (.3-.5) on the first pitch can help between the first 2 bolts.


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By Muscrat
Administrator
Jul 5, 2015

4 stars! Pitch 2 is short, but i still extended the draws.
By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Jan 2, 2016

One of the best, given **** stars, but often overlooked. How is that possible?. Can you explain that?
By Muscrat
Administrator
Jan 3, 2016

^ Umm...human kind? ^
By Brad J
Apr 20, 2016
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Terrific climb for the grade if I do say so myself. We were hammering bolts in on lead and there were times when I had to down climb to a previous bolt and hang out while getting my head back together. Really fun stuff!!

Kris and I put up a new variation to the second pitch last year. When you get to the first anchor look right, over the arete, to the face. I think it's 5 bolts and the grade is maybe 5.8. Watch out for rope drag.

Brad

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