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Lower Fifth Canyon
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3 Musketeers TR 
A Little Bit Country Music T 
Betty Cragger S 
Blunderbuss S 
Bugaboo aka Rusty Trombone T 
Cacophony S 
Coup De Poing S,TR 
Hang It Out T,TR 
Harquebus S 
Little Bit Rock & Roll S 
No Pryer Experience S 
Northwest Passage S 
Out of Juice. S 
Pack It out S,TR 
Schizo S 
Snaphaunce S,TR 

Out of Juice. 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Todd Hamm
Page Views: 101
Submitted By: Scott Coldiron on Jun 26, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: Out Of Juice Beta Photo


The crux 10 ft. off the ground. take care at the first bolt as it's a pretty tricky clip. This climb is rated 10d in Marty's quide. A tricky traverse across a thin slab followed by some very reachy moves.


Far right route on Lower Fifth Canyon Wall.


6 bolts to chains

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By Marlin Thorman
From: Spokane, WA
Sep 26, 2016
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

I don't think this is a 5.10 in my opinion. Clipping the 1st bolt isn't bad but beyond that it gets very hard. Maybe I never figured out the sequence, maybe a hold broke off, maybe it was just felt hard, but I think this route is harder than Jude 24. After the 2nd bolt the climbing is 5.9 to the chains.
By Scott Coldiron
From: Spokane, WA
Sep 26, 2016

You're right Marlin, a very good hold broke off making this quite a bit harder. I think the bottom is now 5.11

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