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Out of Harm's Way 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Paul Fry, 1988
Page Views: 4,470
Submitted By: ScottH on Nov 17, 2007

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Daniel cruising.

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Aside from Cosmos, this route is the best pebble-studded face climb I have done at Smith. The setting, rock, and lichen are all beautiful and so is the distance from the swarming hordes on the front side of the pass.

Jam and lie-back a small, right-facing dihedral to a comfortable ledge. Pumpier than it looks. Clip a bolt, then step out onto the face and tiptoe up endless pebbles to the anchor. This moderate, somewhat sequential climbing is a treat.


The first major crack left of Spiderman Variation.


Gear to 2", then bolts.

Photos of Out of Harm's Way Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Bottom Trad (or soloed) section.
Bottom Trad (or soloed) section.
Rock Climbing Photo: Robert Barry pulling pebbles on "out of harms...
Robert Barry pulling pebbles on "out of harms...
Rock Climbing Photo: Ethan Smith pulling knobs on Out of Harm's Way.
Ethan Smith pulling knobs on Out of Harm's Way.

Comments on Out of Harm's Way Add Comment
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By Peter Franzen
From: Phoenix, AZ
Mar 11, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This route has some of the best knob pulling at Smith for any grade. Wonderful route. The bottom will be pretty sewn up with a 0.75, 2 #1s, and a #2.
By Morrismc
From: Portland, Or
Dec 24, 2010

Amazing Mixed route. I think one of my favorite single pitch climbs at smith!
By Nate Ball
From: Portland, OR
Apr 16, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

8 bolts, but skip the last one, or use the last bolt of In Harm's Way. Otherwise the rope drag to the anchor might hurt. Second pitch aint worth doing, for any reason ever. Cams from .75-2" are ideal for the first bit, which is an excellent stint of hand jams. 60m rope will get you down with a few feet to spare.
By Joe "Big Boi" Osterman
From: Portland, OR
Apr 15, 2016

This route was longer than it looked from the ground. Definitely some quality pebble pulling on the bolted section. Possibly one of the best 5.8's I have climbed.
By Holden Marsh
From: Eugene, OR
May 30, 2016
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This was an excellent route. Everyone in our party found it much more enjoyable (and possibly easier) than its variation to the left, "In Harm's Way".

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