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Out of Hangers 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a R

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a R [details]
FA: Tim Sorenson, Jeff Shrimpton 1981
Page Views: 1,335
Submitted By: Kristin McNamara on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Rob Beno leading Out of Hangers


This climb was originally on site "flashed" in 1981 by Tim Sorenson & Jeff Shrimpton. Bolts were placed on lead. The route was previously rated 5.10b(R) in the Tucker/Steele book. The Slater guide rates it at 5.10a(R). For the longest time, you had to bring your own hangers if you wanted to climb this route. As late as 1994, the Steele book was recommending that you bring hangers just in case! Don't worry, the hangers are all there today.

After dislodging a massive boulder and unleashing it onto the access trail below, my partner decided he would tackle this climb. After multiple falls off at the third bolt, it was sent and turned into a great climb. Better if you taunt, "I sure hope they went back and got the hangers they ran out of."


5 bolts to 2 bolt anchor

Photos of Out of Hangers Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Revised photo of P Wall.  Note the added bolts and...
BETA PHOTO: Revised photo of P Wall. Note the added bolts and...
Rock Climbing Photo: 8/30

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By Tom Myers
May 12, 2004

When viewed from the base, especially the left side, this is an intimidating looking route. That is a reason it is one of the best Bishop's has to offer. There may be no where else in the area you can get a full pitch of arete climbing and the unique exposure it offers. Plus it is essentially lichen-free. All the way from bolt #1 to bolt #5 the route is quite sustained with no move being trivial, easing a bit at the end when fatigue is catching up. The only detraction at all is a loose section on the left side between bolt 2 and 3; one must tread lightly on the holds there. With a 50 meter rope you must terminate the route at the anchors above Stage Fright, so angle left after the last bolt.
By Tom Myers
May 20, 2008

I do not believe this route deserves an R rating and may unnecessarily scare people from attempting the route. Bolts are where they need to be. The route is PG13 at most, a soft 10a, and a beautiful climb.
By Ryan Nevius
From: Estes Park, Colorado
Feb 4, 2012
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

Onsighted this line today. It doesn't look like it gets much traffic (which is unfortunate), as the lichen was pretty thick at parts. The route had great rests and the climbing was consistent. I'm surprised it's not more popular and cleaned up. It's definitely one of the best on the hill. Awesome exposure and movement on the arete.
By Brian Prince
From: morro bay, ca
Apr 18, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

Man, I've climbed this route twice (about a year apart) and both times I had a significant hold break on me. The second time it caused me to fall pretty good onto the first bolt (just after the crux) and into the slab below. I found the hold in the gully and it was definitely chalked up. It looks like a cool route from afar (nice sun/shade line), but I don't think it really feels that cool. And some bolts on the left face for another route kind of detract from it. The crux sequence is pretty cool though. But yeah, be careful.
By Brian Prince
From: morro bay, ca
Mar 21, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

It could just be me but I was bleaying someone on this the other day and, what do you know, a hold broke. He whipped big! It was pretty wild. All was well in the end though. It happened towards the top on easier ground so, yeah, just be careful eh!

Don't hesitate to clip the bolts on the left face. That's what my partner fell onto and it helped him out for sure. Sling them though.

Still a worthy route

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