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Out Of Darkness 

YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c PG13 [details]
FA: Chuck Buzzard, Pete Pollard, 1984
Page Views: 997
Submitted By: Vernon Stiefel on Jun 11, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


This classic line shares the first bolt with Try To Be Hip (5.12a) and then soars straight up to a roof with a bolt. Before clipping the bolt at the roof with a 2' runner you must make difficult moves with microstoppers below you. Another crux is encountered after a short traverse right around the roof to a fixed piton. Finish up and right to anchors.


Mostly very small to medium stoppers are essential for protection. Very small to medium cams supplement the stopper placements. Rappel from anchors with webbing.

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By Monomaniac
From: Morrison, CO
Mar 20, 2007

I agree this seems hard for 11a. Perhaps due to the 3 RP's I had to use to protect the first crux! I was stoked to clip that bolt at the roof. The crux after the roof isn't very hard once you figure it out, but its super devious. I must've been up there for 20 minutes(while on-sighting) climbing up and down, trying to figure out how to do that move.

This route also has a fixed pin protecting the upper crux (above the roof bolt). Its a BD Lost arrow. Its pretty rusty, but it looked solid to me (though I didn;t weight it).
By Max Tepfer
From: Bend, OR
Aug 21, 2012

Just took a wing on this and here are my thoughts:
Firstly: Awesome route!

"Before clipping the bolt at the roof with a 2' runner you must make difficult moves with microstoppers below you." This simply isn't true. Granted, there are some tiny gear placements early on in the pitch, (where the climbing's relatively straight-forward) but at the crux, (before the bolt) I whipped onto the bomberest #9 (blue BD) stopper of life.

"I agree this seems hard for 11a." Yep. Super-devious indeed. There were definitely some key holds that I missed through ignorance and/or lack of tick-marks/chalk.

Lastly, this is the rarest of routes: I would actually recommend bringing a medium-large tricam.
By Brett Yost
From: Bend, Oregon
Mar 1, 2015

The bolt up high in the "roof" was added after 2001. I'm not sure who added it or why.
By Jon Rhoderick
Mar 20, 2016

This climb now has three bolts, the first piece off the ground, the one by the roof (this has been moved to a better spot), and a third as your last piece (there was previously an ancient pin here)

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