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Out of Control Area
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Out of Control 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 130'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Randal Grandstaff, Dave Anderson 1978
Page Views: 6,131
Submitted By: AJ on Nov 19, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (79)
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Weston L pulling the final roof on Out of Control....

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


This is a very enjoyable pitch. Great rock, aesthetic jamming, and nice rests to take in the view.

The crack is mostly splitter finger/thin hand jams. At the top there's a short widening crack which leads up into an A-frame roof. You need some larger gear here (#3.5 – 4 Camalot) but don’t have to do any real OW moves. Cool moves lead to a nice belay ledge with rap chains, just above the roof.


standard rack to 4". A couple extra .5 - 1" pieces are useful.

Photos of Out of Control Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Joe Lee on route
Joe Lee on route
Rock Climbing Photo: Weston L throwing up the horns while leading Out o...
Weston L throwing up the horns while leading Out o...
Rock Climbing Photo: Out of control near top
Out of control near top
Rock Climbing Photo: Out of control fat crack ( you might want to lay o...
Out of control fat crack ( you might want to lay o...
Rock Climbing Photo: Out of control 4
Out of control 4
Rock Climbing Photo: Otu of control 5
Otu of control 5
Rock Climbing Photo: Out of control 3
Out of control 3
Rock Climbing Photo: Out of Control near bottom
Out of Control near bottom
Rock Climbing Photo: Out of Control start
Out of Control start
Rock Climbing Photo: Shayne Durfee pulling the roof
Shayne Durfee pulling the roof
Rock Climbing Photo: Shayne Durfee leading the Crux
Shayne Durfee leading the Crux

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jan 12, 2015
By Aaron S
Dec 16, 2006

Fwiw, the route is not 160'. I was able to rap it with a 70m with room to spare.
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Dec 23, 2006
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

glad i didnt read this before going out...would have blown the onsight.

great climb- we thought a 70m would work, that would have been nice to know!
By Bill Bones
Nov 5, 2007

This route is only 130 feet tall. A 70 meter will work. Great route. Had a blast on it. 10 c seems to sound about right.
By Manjushri
Feb 2, 2009

I climbed this a few years ago and went to it again on 1/31/09. When I stepped left and up into the second crack system, the chockstone that creates it moved significantly. I'm not sure if this was the case when I last climbed it, however, there was a hairline fracture in the stone that looked fairly new. Just a word of caution - the chock stone is jammed in there pretty good and will likely not come out, but when I hand jammed the crack it shifted. Any gear placed around it will run the chance of shifting as well and possibly pulling.
By Chris S
Oct 1, 2009

An excellent route! Its amazing that a photo of it didn't make it into Handren's guide.

But the recommended rack ("standard rack up to 4 inches, extra .5-1 inch useful") works only if a standard rack is doubles of everything! Which is what I recommend for this route: NO stoppers, doubles of cams from 0.4-3", triple 0.5-1", and single 4" cam. 2-4 quickdraws and 1-2 shoulder length slings to extend pro in the o.w. and roof. Then send!
By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
Oct 31, 2010

This is probably one of the top ten 5.10 crack pitches at Red Rocks.

Here is the rack I would bring next time:

Single set of cams from green alien to #4fr

2x 0.3/0.4 C4
4x 0.5 C4
3x 0.75/1 C4

Just make sure you save the #3 and #4fr for the pod and the #2 for the roof finish.
By Tim Wolfe
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jan 8, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

A very good crack climb that has few of the usual red rock crimps. A few layoffs in the pod up high will get you past some otherwise painful moves. It has multiple rests so not fully sustained for the entire 120 feet however the top fat crack is stout. I agree with above gear comments - double set of all sizes 1/2 to 3 inches (triple in 3/4 to 1 inch range would have been nice) with a couple tiny cams and at least one big cam for the wide section. See photo sequence for a review of the route.
By Patrick Mulligan
Dec 12, 2011
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

I did this route almost 10 years ago, but it has stuck with me. It wasn't one distinct crux that gets you on this thing, but somehow I was pretty spent by the end. There are however some very good rests. With American Ninja and Remote Control close by its worth spending a morning in the area. I need to look at my notes, but I believe we also climbed a route in this area at easy .10 called Control Freak...
By Cunning Linguist
Jan 23, 2012

WOOOOOOO! This route is GOOD!

Rack: SR 00-4, 2x .4-2, 3-4 .5, .75, 1.

Climbs very much like a creek splitter with a couple of cool face "cheats", so I'd reccommend protecting it like one. White+pink rock as well-soft stuff for Red Rock. Really nice 10+ testpiece that keeps your interest the whole way, sustained in ringlocks-thin hands for my size hands. The earlier comment about the loose block is on the money-this might turn into an OW if someone managed to trundle that beast. Save #2 and a long sling for the finish, our group disagreed about location of the crux area, seemed very size dependant. Anchor's in good shape, enjoy!
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Mar 9, 2012
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

This one is burl-doggin' for sure. Holy shit. I was kicking and screaming on this. Hardest 10c I've climbed. So good. So physical. Rap easily with a 70m.
By Sean
From: Oak Park, CA
Apr 12, 2013

Handren book indicated triples of 1" to 3" plus a 4" piece. Brought up two C4 0.75 pieces anyway from eyeing the crack from ground. The crux of this send was remaining calm and unresentful while bumping up the lone red Link Cam for dreadful long stretches of fingers, trying not to think about the huge 50 ft air at times if the bumping goes awry with a peel off. Like some have mentioned, would add one 0.4 (yellow Alien), three 0.5 (red Alien), and a third C4 0.75. Could also pare down to either one 2" piece and three 3" or two of each.

Fantastic soaring splitter with wild roof finish.
By Kevin Dahlstrom
From: Fort Worth, TX
Nov 17, 2014

This is hands down one of the best 5.10 pitches at Red Rocks - 110 feet of fun, well protected climbing that rewards good technique and footwork. I don’t think there are any moves harder than 10a but the difficulty is fairly sustained. That being said, it’s not an enduro pitch – there are two or three decent rests including right before the final roof move. I brought doubles through 2, triples of 0.5, 0.75, and 1, and a single 3 and 4 and the rack was perfect. If you do a little gear-sliding and get creative with nuts you could get by with a standard double rack without being too bold.

UPDATE: Led this route again with only doubles of 0.5 - 1. Definitely spicier but manageable if you make liberal use of nuts to conserve cams. I recently climbed two other classic Red Rocks 5.10 splitters, The Fox and The Schwa, and I think this route is the hardest of the three.
By michalm
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 12, 2015
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Sustained, excellent climbing. One of the best splitter cracks I've climbed in the park. The slot is demanding and the roof is the easiest part!

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