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Our Little Secret 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Mary and Tai Devore
Season: south facing
Page Views: 61
Submitted By: Jeff Scheuerell on Apr 29, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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Description 

A great mixed climb that is mostly bolted (4 out of 5 stars for the climbing). The route is mixed as far as protection (bolts and gear) as well as the climbing itself... mantles, friction, liebacking, hand and foot jamming and even steep jug hauling are all thrown in. From the base the route is rather intimidating but with closely spaced bolts the route is mostly safe. Unfortunately the crux of the route is trying to find and place sound gear while at the most strenuous, steep, and intimidating section of the route. After a fair amount of effort and a couple of questionable pieces I finally managed to get a piece I was willing to climb past. Above, placing gear continued to be awkward and strenuous and never seemed ideal but the last bolt is soon reached and then the anchor is just a few pulls and smears away.

Location 

The route is located in the middle of the Wall just left of an easier looking crack, Triple Jeopordy.

Protection 

9 bolts and Pro to 1" or scroll down for the long winded version of what I placed.


























































After the 8th bolt I placed a .75 C4 that probably would have blown taking a nice jug with it. Then fiddled with a small cam where a stopper probably would have been much better(#7 or 8 BD stopper ???) but last minute removed them from my rack. Not liking the look of the cam I got, I managed a fairly good .3C4 with a lot of energy expenditure a little higher. After committing to the crux moves and stopping with the last piece at my feet I battled with finding another. After much effort finally managed an ok small blue Metolious and climbed through to the next bolt and then the anchor. So next time I bring a couple of stoppers a .3C4 and a red C3 and leave the rest on the ground. You might choose to bring the .75 incase you gas out you can rest on it. Also you could get a micro stopper below the red C3 but probably just gun it for the last bolt.


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