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Sep 20, 2010
Ok all you Otto regulars, when I make it to the crux bulge at top and possibly wimp out, can we rap from below after possibly down climbing? I do hope to just make the move of course, but just in case... rich mcfadden
From loveland,co
Joined Mar 21, 2006
0 points
Sep 20, 2010
There's a rap station below the final pitch but you can make the move. Just French free the @#$% out of it if you have to! Michael Schneiter
From Glenwood Springs, CO
Joined Apr 3, 2002
6,230 points
Sep 21, 2010
You can do it! Seriously, consider getting to the top by any means you can, it's a great summit. Keep in mind the style of the FA. ;) Crisco Jackass
From Grand Junction, CO
Joined May 27, 2008
0 points
Sep 21, 2010
There is a good #2 placement on the ramp before getting to the drilled angles. After that clip 2 drilled angles and go straight up. Forget about the last one underneath the roof. Besides adding rope drag, clipping the last one puts you in the wrong position to mantle up.

You can do it!
portercassidy
From UT/CO
Joined Nov 4, 2006
20 points
Sep 21, 2010
You can rap but I'm going to echo the community here. Do the moves, the lip is a HUGE jug (in fact, I think its my profile pic). If you can do the 1st & 2nd pitch, the last one should be no problem, if anything focus on your head. A smooth, steady breathe has always pulled me out of the cloud of anxiety. Nathan McBride
From Boulder
Joined Jan 10, 2007
0 points
Sep 21, 2010
You can rap from below. but you can definetly clean aid the crux if you cannot do it. One of my friends actually set up aiders (ladder) at the top once for some people and they made it up no problem. There are pins there and if you reach over the roof you can grab one of ottos pipes. Good luck. It is a great summit :) rob rebel
From Denver, co
Joined Jan 20, 2006
0 points
Administrator
Sep 21, 2010
I'm not a very good free climber and I went up there fully expecting to french free, but the moves were easy enough that I wasn't tempted to pull on draws. If you need to, it would be very easy to french free though. Andrew Gram
From Salt Lake City, UT
Joined Jan 1, 2001
3,430 points
Sep 21, 2010
Groveling for big jugs, you started to learn how to do that at puberty. You can do it! :-) YDPL8S
From Santa Monica, Ca.
Joined Aug 7, 2003
240 points
Sep 25, 2010
I've climbed it about ten times now almost always with newbies and I've never had anyone not make it. Most recently I took a guy up that had only climbed a couple of times in our gym before going up. He struggled but made it. Rschap
From Grand Junction, CO
Joined Apr 26, 2009
320 points
Sep 27, 2010
It's a 1 move wonder with gear at your hips. I brought a #2 (purple) Lowe tricam for the drilled pockets. 2 of those and a small standard rack and you can sew the thing up.

Prod.
prod. Kenny
From Boulder, Co
Joined Nov 29, 2008
0 points
Sep 27, 2010
How would the temps be during the first week of November? I hear that this route doesn't receive much direct sun and might be chilly. Accurate assessment? Jhawk
From Greenville, SC
Joined Jul 12, 2010
0 points
Sep 27, 2010
That move is not hard. Just go for it and you'll be fine. Ed Wright
Joined May 14, 2006
35 points
Sep 27, 2010
John Neathawk wrote:
How would the temps be during the first week of November? I hear that this route doesn't receive much direct sun and might be chilly. Accurate assessment?


It might be a bit chilly. Unless you plan on moving really fast, it might not be super fun that late in the year. There will be no direct sun for the first three pitches. The final pitch will be sunny most of the day. But its not out of the question. Personally, I would probably wait (actually I would do sundial that time of year instead;) "But there is no such thing as bad weather, just inappropriate clothing"

November WOULD be a pleasant time for the approach, though. If you are up for it, I would say get on Desert Solitaire in November.
Skyeler Congdon
From his van
Joined Mar 24, 2007
1,275 points
Oct 1, 2010
downclimbing that would suck, just pull on your gear (french free) if you have to coop Best
From Glenwood Springs, CO
Joined Jan 25, 2005
430 points
Oct 1, 2010
Early november should be fine as far as temps go. If it is cold you can do the Chimneymountainproject.com/v/colorado... on the south, sunny side! rick gardiner
From Grand Junction, CO,
Joined Dec 12, 2008
0 points
Oct 1, 2010
There is always the option of bringing long slings and standing in them to pass the last bulge. There is a fat pipe up there you can grab hold of if need be. I have seen people downclimb that section when the winds hit, that was before the first drilled piton. Climbing is about leaving your comfort zone at times. The holds are there, it is well protected and it only lasts a few moves. Make sure you have a good belayer and once you get to the verticle section and clip that angle you are home free homey.Good luck -Peace and Soul PTZ
From Chicago/Colorado
Joined Jul 27, 2010
200 points


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