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Otter Lake Cliff

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Approach Shoe Assassin S 
Crimp Scampi S 
Dukes of Hazard S 
Harvest Moon S 
Harvest Moon Variation S 
Independence Pass S 
Independence Pass Variation S 
One Second Suffering  
Pandora's Box  S 
Porcupine Prelude  S 
Porcupine Prelude, Variation S 
Roof Direct S 
Roof Traverse S 
Roof Traverse Variation S 
Rubber Knumbchuck S 
White Arete S 
Unsorted Routes:

Otter Lake Cliff Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 43.1936, -74.4966 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 5,853
Administrators: Jim Lawyer, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Justin Sanford on Jan 24, 2011
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]


Short south facing cliff on the north side of Otter Lake in Caroga Lake, NY. If you are looking for some fun bouldery sport routes without a crowd, then this is the place for you. Tallest climb in roughly 45' tall, some are only 30-35' tall.

Getting There 

Park at the Kane Mtn. tailhead parking area on Green Lake Rd. in Caroga Lake, NY (near the small marina/gas station). From the parking area, walk northeast toward the reservoir and turn left onto the cross country ski trail that cuts over to Pine Lake. About 400 yards down this trail you will see a rock cairn on the right side of the trail. Cut into the woods here to head towards Otter Lake (This appraoch keeps you off of the private property for the 2 hunting camps on Otter Lake). Once you hit the lake, stay on the waters edge of the north side of the lake continuing all the way to the backside of the lake. Follow the climbers trail to the cliff. Total hike takes roughly 25 min.

Climbing Season

Weather station 12.3 miles from here

16 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Otter Lake Cliff

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Otter Lake Cliff:
Pandora's Box    5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Otter Lake Cliff

Featured Route For Otter Lake Cliff
Rock Climbing Photo: Mitch Hoffman on White Arete

White Arete 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b  New York : Adirondacks : ... : Otter Lake Cliff
Number 6 in the sketch and one of the most obvious climbs at the cliff. Climb up the white arete using anything within reach....[more]   Browse More Classics in New York

Photos of Otter Lake Cliff Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Roof Direct
Roof Direct
Rock Climbing Photo: The Overlaps on the main face...pretty nice featur...
BETA PHOTO: The Overlaps on the main face...pretty nice featur...
Rock Climbing Photo: Boulder at the base of the cliff...holdsa  nice V3...
BETA PHOTO: Boulder at the base of the cliff...holdsa nice V3...
Rock Climbing Photo: Mitch Hoffman leading "Porcupine Prelude"...
Mitch Hoffman leading "Porcupine Prelude"...
Rock Climbing Photo: Sketch of the Cliff and Routes
BETA PHOTO: Sketch of the Cliff and Routes

Comments on Otter Lake Cliff Add Comment
Show which comments
By Chris Duca
From: Havertown, PA
Jan 27, 2011
I notice that all of the routes get a "PG-13" rating, though they're categorized as sport routes. Is there potential for ground fall on these routes?
By bheller
From: SL UT
Feb 5, 2011
Wow Justin... you went on a rampage here... nice work!
By Justin Sanford
From: Broadalbin, New York
Mar 28, 2011
Ha ha...that's what you get when you have a boulderer trying to rate sport climbs! The climbs are well protected, but I have seen people stick clip the 2nd bolt on a bunch of the routes in fear of ground falls (although I personally have not seen a ground fall at this crag). I guess thr routes could be updated to "G"...need some more climbers opinions out there for sure...
By Matt Rhodin
From: Denver, CO
Sep 19, 2014
Can somebody with the new ADK rock book update the approach? Apparently there is a much more detailed description now.

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