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3. Trailhead Wall
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Brother Toad S 
Hemp Seeds Sowed S 
Meltdown S 
Mother Lode T,S 
Other Road, The T,S 
Otis S 
Perpetual Doubt S 
Pirate Mode T,S 
Rad Lad S 
Squid Kid S 
Temporary Change of Season T,S 
Trooper Traverse T 

Otis 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: ??
Season: late spring to early fall
Page Views: 134
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Sep 6, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Description 

This pitch lies above Squid Kid. It may be reachable from Rad Lad, 11d. This can be used to make a 2 (11a) or 3 (11c?) pitch short, sport link-up. The crux lies around the 6th bolt involving sort of a gaston-like thing. There is another fun move up a bit higher where you have to decide on moving out right or staying on the face ('arder). It does have a feeling like a bunch of lower-end boulder problems stacked on top of each other.

There is a 2 bolt anchor on the same ledge as the top of the pitch out to the left.

You can rap with 2 60m ropes to the ground.

Location 

This is ~120 feet up, above Squid Kid.

Protection 

9 bolts, 2 bolt anchor.


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By Frogmen83
Jul 30, 2013
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Fun route but lacks the continuity of climbing like Squid Kid does. Felt like two separate boulder problems.

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