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Otis Peak

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Cosmo 
Fire Tower 
Forgotten Spire 
Hidden Spire 
Otis Flower Tower 
Otis Power Tower (known in the new Haas book as The Momento) 
Piton Spire 
Solar Wall, The 
Thrill Tower 
Wham 
Zowie 

Otis Peak Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 11,000'
Location: 40.2922, -105.6805 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 14,902
Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Cor on Aug 31, 2010
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The convoluted southern flanks of Otis Peak.

Seasonal Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Otis Peak is a longish ridge to the north of Loch Vale and goes up to the Continental Divide. It hosts Loch Vale Pinnacle, Wham, Zowie, The Solar Wall, Cosmo, Otis Flower Tower, Fire Tower, the Piton Spire, and The Birthday Tower. Under Otis Peak is the Alva Adams Tunnel that brings water from west to east of the Continental Divide.

Getting There 

From Glacier Gorge, go up to The Loch (~2.7 miles). Skirt the Loch on the right (north) side. Head up right on the Andrews Glacier Trail past Andrews Tarn (~3.5 miles). The first spires you see on the right are Wham and Zowie. Further downhill is the Loch Vale Pinnacle. Next are Solar Wall, Otis Flower Tower, and Piton Spire. Expect 1+ hours for the approach.

Climbing Season



Weather station 8.3 miles from here

17 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',12],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',1],['5.8',4],['5.9',3],['5.10',7],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Otis Peak

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Otis Peak:
One for the Red Team   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch   Zowie
South Face   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches   Zowie
Piton D'Or (The Golden Piton)   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 600'   Piton Spire
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Otis Peak

Featured Route For Otis Peak
Rock Climbing Photo: Good luck. Dots are approximately where we belayed...

Heat Wave 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c  Colorado : Alpine Rock : ... : Otis Flower Tower
An interesting route. At the beginning the routes kinda chossy and slightly forced (it's 5.11 here, but 5.8 6 feet to the right...), but the quality improves greatly with height and the line becomes more natural. We got kinda lost in the middle (actually gave up on the route at one point and just climbed what looked cool) so my beta is a bit questionable. P1: Start on the left side of the tower in the shade under the obvious roof. Climb a variety of face, crack and dihedral up to the center roof...[more]   Browse More Classics in Colorado

Photos of Otis Peak Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Otis Peak overview.
BETA PHOTO: Otis Peak overview.
Rock Climbing Photo: I really liked the other photo by Keen Butterworth...
I really liked the other photo by Keen Butterworth...

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