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Otis Flower Tower
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Otis Eaters 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 1200', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: B. Rosenberg, B. Collett, July 2017
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 47
Submitted By: Ben Collett on Jul 5, 2017

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The route.

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Description 

This route is more or less a direct start to a combination of Heat Wave and Otis Flower Tower.

1) Climb the dihedral until it ends at a ledge, step right, and climb the first crack system on the right. Follow this to another ledge where one can step left into a shallow, left-facing dihedral. Follow this to the large treed ledge, 300 feet, 5.7.

2) Climb nebulous terrain up the prow of the buttress to another comfortable ledge, 250 feet, 5.6.

3) Continue up the prow to where the wall steepens. Follow steep cracks for 30 feet until one can step left to belay at the base of a short but nice looking, right-facing corner, 300 feet, 5.9.

4) Climb the corner, and continue up a series of pleasant cracks to a large ledge on the prow that is shared with the route Otis Flower Tower, 150 feet, 5.9+.

5-6) Follow Otis Flower Tower to the top. Climb the crack system above to the ridge crest, avoid a gendarme on the right, regain the ridge, and head to the top, 5.9, 300 feet.

To descend, rap off the summit with two rope into the gully west of the feature. Scramble and rap the gully. It may take a little bit of sleuthing to find the anchors, but have faith (and bring some tat).

Location 

The route starts in a prominent, stepped, left-facing corner at the base of the buttress.

Protection 

A standard rack to #3 Camalot.


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