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YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Dave Johnson and Pete Robinson, 1964
Page Views: 24,636
Submitted By: Matt Bauman on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (205)
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Janet relaxing in the rockalounger at the top of O...

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This is agreat route up the "pages" of the Book (right book). Many people call this a sandbag, but I think it is just sustained climbing at 5.7. It is a long, steep, and beautiful route.

P1. Left of George's Tree, locate a large crack (starts hands-offwidth bulge to chimney). Jam and chimney your way up to the ledge (long pitch), ~150'.

P2. Take grooves/cracks up to tree belay (50 feet). [This can be linked with P1].

P3. Take the LARGE, right-facing dihedral up the ever steepening wall, past a bulge (crux) and onto Fang ledge....very long pitch (60m).

P4. Get on top of the Fang and jam steep cracks straight up, past bulge, to tree where angle eases back (can continue to summit via easy cracks or belay here).

P5. Climb easy cracks up and left to summit (avoiding headwall) or take one of many cracks up and right to headwall (see guidebook).

Descend east and south in steep gully systems or rappel from trees down gully (if wet, dark or scared).

Per chipacles: bailing off even the first pitch [may] require two ropes or leaving gear behind.


Standard rack, doubles in hand sizes helpful. Some fixed anchors (trees) and some gear.

Photos of Osiris Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Osiris, July '04.
BETA PHOTO: Osiris, July '04.
Rock Climbing Photo: Osirus area of Pages Wall.
BETA PHOTO: Osirus area of Pages Wall.
Rock Climbing Photo: 1st pitch.
1st pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Janet cranking on the first pitch of Osiris.
Janet cranking on the first pitch of Osiris.
Rock Climbing Photo: Ahad Sabet pulling through the awkward section of ...
Ahad Sabet pulling through the awkward section of ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down the third pitch of Osiris just before...
Looking down the third pitch of Osiris just before...
Rock Climbing Photo: 3 parties on the upper Book.  The Fang is on the l...
3 parties on the upper Book. The Fang is on the l...
Rock Climbing Photo: I love Lumpy Ridge. The views from the climbs are ...
I love Lumpy Ridge. The views from the climbs are ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Jonny above the Fang.  (August 7th, 2012)
Jonny above the Fang. (August 7th, 2012)
Rock Climbing Photo: Molly heading over to the Fang, just before the la...
Molly heading over to the Fang, just before the la...
Rock Climbing Photo: Chillin' on the top of Osiris.
Chillin' on the top of Osiris.
Rock Climbing Photo: If you go right instead of left at the top of the ...
If you go right instead of left at the top of the ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Beginning of the 4th, standing on top of the Fang.
BETA PHOTO: Beginning of the 4th, standing on top of the Fang.
Rock Climbing Photo: The shaded dihedral in the foreground is the 1st p...
The shaded dihedral in the foreground is the 1st p...
Rock Climbing Photo: Heading up the 5.7 pitch.
Heading up the 5.7 pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Christa is about to pull the crux on pitch 3.
Christa is about to pull the crux on pitch 3.
Rock Climbing Photo: From the start.
BETA PHOTO: From the start.
Rock Climbing Photo: Osiris selfie.
Osiris selfie.
Rock Climbing Photo: Rick Sanders starting up the fun third pitch.
Rick Sanders starting up the fun third pitch.

Comments on Osiris Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 18, 2017
By Mike Sofranko
Jul 10, 2001

This is a great route to collect booty gear on. Not a recommended route when hung-over.
By Brice W
Aug 1, 2001

Fun climb! It does seem fairly sustained, but the protection was excellent, which is always nice. The fact that I wasn't feeling too strong that day and that it was my first time climbing the route led me to fire in pieces every two or three feet in places. The downclimb is easy to find if you follow the description in the guidebook, but it seemed harder to us in spots than 4th class.
By Mike Bentley
Aug 16, 2001

This route sucks. I had to bail off of the first pitch last year and came back for vengance a few weeks ago. The best part of the climb is definitely the first pitch, if you stay out of the chimney. Other than that, the route doesn't deserve a single star.
By Matt Bauman
Aug 16, 2001

The first pitch is ok, the rest of the pitches besides the short 2nd pitch are fun, moderate and exciting...... I think you were off route dude or you only enjoy chimney/offwidth and the famous Lumpy slabby crack climbing is not for you...... it's a great introduction to the Lumpy style of climbing.....very popular so I'd avoid it unless you get there in the winter (I did it early February) or during the week.
By Erik Corkran
Aug 16, 2001

I've heard fairly mixed reviews of this route also. Some people love it, some well, think it sucks. I did it a long time ago, and didn't like it very well.
By Matt Robertson
Aug 16, 2001

Damn, dude, go easy on that little girl! I found Osiris to be excellent - a perfectly typical Lumpy route at a moderate grade, and therefore not for everyone. Lacking only some runout, I think this route is a perfect intro to the first-class climbing experience that is Lumpy Ridge.

Rossiter's guidebook attributes the FA to Dave Johnson and Pete Robinson in 1964.
By Erik Corkran
Aug 18, 2001

It's actually not a bad route, I just didn't have much fun on it. Maybe I was having a weird day. Also there was the time (on pitch 3 I think) that for some reason I didn't realize you could use two of the flared cracks at once, and had been climbing only one of them, making it feel quite hard for 5.7. If I were to recommend a nice big 5.7 though, it would be Kor's Flake without a doubt. Ok enough babbling from me for now.
By Anonymous Coward
Sep 23, 2001

Fun route. There's no tree on the first belay ledge. Pitches 1 and 4 are hard with a pack on. Easy to combine P4&5 with a 60-m rope.
By Michael Walker
From: Loveland, CO
Sep 24, 2001

Indeed, a great tour of Lumpy offerings - grunty chimney, thought provoking crack...and did anyone else throw a sling around the Fang and belay off that unique feature (never forget when I came over the lip on the third pitch after the cracks - my partner Sean had lead and was riding the Fang like a bucking bronco - it necessitated a photo)?
By Zachary Markis
Mar 15, 2002

Are you sure you all were on the right route?? Osiris is one of the classics in Colorado! The first pitch is definately the best--but, there is so much to this climb...slab, crack, offwidth (I know, sounds crazy, but I enjoy them, great belays at almost every pitch! Avoid it on the weekends.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Apr 24, 2002
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I think the route is a little odd. I've done it twice, and even rescued someone off of it once. In any case, it flares in spots, it has some less-than perfect rock, and route finding can be less than obvious.

At its grade, it tends to be a Lumpy-Intro for a lot of less experienced climbers. I can understand why its grade and quality would thus be a topic of much debate.

Personally, I'd give it 1-2 *'s because it can't hold a candle to Turnkorner, Romulan Territory, J-Crack or Pear Buttress.
By Michael Walker
From: Loveland, CO
Apr 24, 2002

As an example of what Tony is talking about: my friend loathed the offwidth (!!) on P1. From there on out the climb was "of a lessor" quality in his eyes...
By Michael Komarnitsky
Founding Father
From: Seattle, WA
May 9, 2002

Pitch lengths/discussion: P1 is about 150 feet to the ledge. P2 should be led long, past the tree and up the ramps to the nice stance just below the big RF dihedral. This gets you to The Fang in about 150 feet again. You can link P4 and P5 (it makes the most sense) at about 164.5 feet.

FWIW, I'd give this route 1.5 stars in my book.
By Ben Mottinger
Founding Father
May 13, 2002
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I think a lot of the discussion on the "quality" of this route has to do with what type of routes people prefer. I personally like a clean crack on a face or in a dihedral, and a lot of the climbing on Osiris is not that clean. Sorry to add yet another comment on this topic.
By pete cogan
May 18, 2002

About the descent: we went SE and found a clear trail. No downclimbing, no steep gullies, no hassles. 35 minutes back to the car (without returning to base of climb)

We climbed it on a beautiful Sat AM with no people -- just get there early.
By Barrett Cooper
Jun 25, 2002

The tree belay ledge at the end of the normal second pitch is just over 195 feet off the ground. So when you get up to it and the rain pours in on you, you can escape with two 60m ropes and rap to the ground. If you only had one rope or two 50m ropes you should be able to rap to the first belay ledge and then rap again to the anchors for Georges Tree route below and to the right of the first belay ledge.
By Smas
Aug 11, 2002

Osiris is the first route I did at Lumpy, and I thought it was great. Accidentally linked the first two pitches looking for a ledge with a "tree"(the correct ledge doesn't have one). Just barely made it with a 60. Also linked the last two to make it a three pitch climb. The best part is definitely the two cruxes over the bulges on pitches 2 and 3, not really hard but committing for a 5.7. There is a really easy walk off described in Rossiter's guidebook: walk straight off the back of the summit over a slab and into a saddle, then follow the obvious trail to the right down to the Twin Owls trailhead. It is really easy and doesn't even have any 4th class! Don't take it if you stashed gear at the base though because you end up almost at the parking lot.
By Michael Kullman
Sep 16, 2002

Great climb! As someone else has noted, pitch two can be stretched out another 30 feet or so above the ledge with the tree. Continue up and left to a small (but decent) ledge at the base of the right facing corner, start p3 from here.

Also, we were a bit confused about where the route goes at the start of pitch 4. We ended up going pretty much straight up some short steep cracks, and there is no way that it was 5.7 climbing (seemed much harder than anything we did on the first 3 pitches). Looking at a topo after the fact it seems like we were closer to George's Tree than Osiris. Some folks told us we needed to work a bit further to the left after topping out on pitch 3. Anybody got some advice on this section?
By Rob Mullen
Sep 24, 2002

My first Lumpy climb!! It was a weird climb for the first 2 pitches in that I was not used to offwidth techniques felt very strenous for 5.7, pitch 3 next to the right facing corner and up and over the bulge was a lot of fun, my favorite. The pitch from the fang was steep, I had to switch cracks a couple of times which was fun. That being said I don't think I would ever climb this again, but I am glad to have done it.
By Scott Thompson
Oct 2, 2002

As if this route needs any more comments...oh well, I'm bored. I've done the first pitch two different ways: one is pure chimney style--which feels very hard for 5.6, and not to mention long, two is face climbing--which makes this much more enjoyable. There are a couple sections where you just have to do some chimney action (the first bulge 20 ft off the ground) to keep this ticked in at 5.6, but these arent bad. climbing the face to the left of the chimney feels 6ish, and is never desperate. The easiest line took me farther left (5-8 ft off the crack) than I wanted to be, and gear was sometimes a stretch to place (deep in the chimney at times), but was never really a problem. Save a couple larger pieces for the belay--3 to 4 FR or equivalent hexes work perfect. The third pitch is superb!! Fairly sustained, but with good rests between the tough sections, and always well-protected. The easiest line for me seemed to follow the cracks to the right of the RF dihedral. This pitch eats medium stoppers--doubles are nice. the "headwall" above is truly excellent, and not too hard. One can layback, jam, and stem the double cracks thru this section--the jams are sinker. P4 is interesting. Getting on top of the fang is a little funky, but the moves off the fang for the next 15 ft. are downright weird! The protection is just alright, and everything seems to be loose and sketchy. My partner and I thought this was harder (pychological, mostly) then the 5.7 bulge above, and definitely less straightforward. RE: this bulge, Gillett says it's a "bulge with a wide crack, 5.7"--its not really wide, you can sink great handjams, and the moves are sick!! very fun. This is a fine climb with two long pitches--the third pitch should not be missed! If you have a bad experience with the first pitch (which has definite potential for being a hell-raiser, although I enjoyed it), I could see how you could loathe the rest of the route.
By Anonymous Coward
Oct 7, 2002

'Osiris' was my introduction to 'The Book'. It's awesome and I suggest it. It accepts terrific gear.
By Ben Mottinger
Founding Father
Oct 8, 2002
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I think there are better 5.7s out there. YMMV.
By Nate Christiansen
Feb 12, 2003
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Either I really suck at chimneys, which I probably do, or the first pitch of Osiris is way underrated. I always have a terrible time with this first pitch. Because of that, I do the first long pitch of George's Tree. The climbing is more difficult, sustained 5.9, but it's more positive than Osiris's first pitch IMO.
By Stephan Greenway
May 29, 2003

OK, at the risk of getting hammered by my Estes Park buddies, I am going out on a limb here...

This route is....and always has been a worm driving pile of crap. There I said it! I don't know why it gets any stars! If you want to climb a route in this grade range avoid this one like the plague and head straight over to the Left Book.

But I am a sport climbing weenie!
By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
May 29, 2003

Aw, c'mon, how many sport routes have cool butt seats like in Scott Conner's photo? That alone is worth one star!
By Crusty
May 29, 2003

Clean chimney, quality thrutching, finger cracks, hand cracks, stepping off the fang, a bigger 5.7 than the left book routes, it deserves at least two stars. Great intro to the steeper Lumpy routes. Left Book is quality, too, though. Stephan, I think you are afraid to stick your body parts into those cracks. There's only the occasional rabid critter in there, you'll be fine, just go! xoxoxo -c
By Paul Giglio
Sep 29, 2003

Did it Saturday. Had perfect weather and really liked it. Maybe I'm just used to Lumpy adversity.
By bb
Jul 13, 2004

Tried climbing it on Sunday (7-4-04). We had the wrong route though. We were to the left of it. Much harder than Osiris. My friend said it was probably a 5.9
By Edward Jenner
Aug 8, 2004

Not really liking off-width chimney-ish thinks, I was glad not to lead the first pitch and though it was the hardest on the route. The second is also a bit stout (didn't lead that either) and the third and fourth I thought were quite reasonable. Nothing too funky, good gear, and just when you think it's going to be hard, the holds appear.

Great route, The first pitch was the most fun I've had in a wide crack. I think the people saying this is a pile are just trying to keep the crowds off it.
By Anonymous Coward
Aug 22, 2004

Robert Curtis - I did this yesterday, had fun. Although I think my partner got the best pitches (I did pitches 2 & 4). I really liked Pitch 4 above the Fang (Steep and exciting). I didn't like haulin' our gear in the first pitch (made the chimneyish sections awkward). Also on the second pitch I went up the "stepped right facing dihedral" that Gillet talks about; has anyone just gone straight up to the tree belay? What's it like done that way?
By Bryan Gartland
From: Helena, MT
Sep 19, 2004
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Did this today and inadvertently combined pitches one and two, it would have been a stretch with a 60m but luckily we had a 70m. Since I still thought I was one P1, I went straight up from the usual first belay and it seemed about 5.8. Pitch 3 was by far the best, hand jams don't get any better; pitch four was kind of a grunt.

Osiris isn't a 3 star due to the awkward natrue of P1 and P4, IMO, but it's still a great route and certainly one that I would do again.
By JPVallone
Sep 20, 2004

I definitely think Osirus deserves 3 stars. Yeah, maybe pitch one is a bit of a grunt but so is the Harding Slot on Astroman and that doesn't detract from it. While I respect your right to give this 2 stars, I fully disagree. It's staying 3 stars in my book.
By Stich
From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Sep 18, 2005
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

I climbed this route today after doing J Crack. I concur that this is a bit of a sandbag, with the caveat that those highly skilled at crack climbing will certainly fare the best. P1 is stiffer than P1 of Werksupp in my opinion. The many flaring, shallow cracks on Osiris that parallel the deeper ones can sucker you into moving over to them, only to find not a jam nor opportunity for pro. I stayed in the offwidth and would step out left from time to time. I combined P1 and P2 to the tree, which barely reaches with a 60m rope and may require your second to climb up so you can get them on belay. You can also combine P4 and P5 with a 60m, but you will not be able to hear your belayer. Have rope tugs agreed upon beforehand.
By Matt Richardson
From: Longmont, CO
Jun 23, 2006

Did this about a year ago as one of my (and my wife's) first moderate leads. Definitely pushed both of us - made the newbie mistake of trying to drag a backpack up the first pitch. This made the rest of the route total crap in my wife's eyes, but I loved it. Gillett calls the variation of P2 that goes straight up a "hand-crack", but I did it again this past weekend and found the initial portion of the crack to be very wide; does anybody know if this is the variation that he describes?
By TBlom
Jul 2, 2006

Totally sweet...combined 1 and 2, just watch for rope drag. It's not a bad climb, just an out of fashion climb!
By Ross Tichota
Jul 31, 2006

The first pitch of this climb sucks. Awkward and as far from smooth as possible. The rest of the climb was pretty fun though, especially pitch three.
By Eric Goltz
From: Boulder, CO
May 10, 2007

3 stars is waaaaay off, compared to Kor's Flake, Pear Buttress, or any other high-quality moderate at Lumpy. The climbing is physical, and is not a recommended place to bring anybody green to old-school tactics. Leave the pack on the ground and carry shoes on your harness.
By - - -
Aug 3, 2008

The traverse left on fang ledge makes a STELLAR picture.
By W. Spaller
Nov 26, 2008
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Compared to other Lumpy 5.7s, this route will seem very difficult. Be prepared for physical and sustained climbing all at the 5.7 grade.
By Sean Moon
From: Toyota Tacoma, USA
Jan 29, 2009

I did this route back in could have been the winter storm that was blowing in on us or the fact I hadn't led in a while, but I thought the first pitch harder than 5.7. I would like to head back there in better conditions and see what I think then.
By Sarah Kate
From: Seattle, WA
May 5, 2009

Definitely sandbagged. Only 5.7 if OWs are your passion and joy. Gets better after the first pitch.
By Wade Frank
From: Littleton, CO
Jul 20, 2009

Did this on Saturday 7/20/2009 and thought it was a fun route, I stayed in the off-width/chimney on the first pitch, I certainly think 5.7 is a fair rating but with my lack of experience on off-width/chimney climbing the first pitch was the crux for me. The third pitch gets fun when it gets steep and the steep part of the fourth pitch was fun as well, we linked the 4th and 5th pitch.

This was my first climb in Lumpy.
By goatboywonder Patrick
Sep 6, 2009

What a great route. I felt that a 5.7 is a pretty fair grade. The first pitch is definitely old school climbing. Keep your back to the right wall for about 90% of the pitch, figure out how to heel-toe and you'll feel pretty secure. The crux pitch (3rd for us) was super nice. Well worth the hassle of the first pitch. The wall get pretty steep with a pair of prefect hand cracks.... mmmm, delicious.
By Petsfed
From: Laramie, WY
Jun 20, 2010

The first pitch feels pretty similar in difficulty and style to Soft Touch (5.5) at Vedauwoo. I keep hearing that the bulge on top of the 3rd pitch is the crux, but frankly, it's a breeze compared to the rest of the pitch. The style of climbing (hands and big hands jamming) is much much more secure than the fingerlocks and dicey feet that lead to it.
By Larry Marquardt
Jun 21, 2010

Since I climbed this with Brian (comment above), I'm a bit reluctant to say that I struggled on this first pitch as much or more than on the supposedly 5.10 Obi Wan in Unaweep! By far the crux of the climb IMO, maybe it was the hydration pack or maybe I'm just getting old, good protection though Brian led.

Learned a lesson on taking the easy way out, too. Missed the Fang due to confusion with another description and the fact that it didn't seem to be in the right place. Ended up on a 5.7 or 5.8 dihedral (best guess, Midway) and belayed at a terrible stance w/ a rusty old 1/4" bolt and a stopper (Salun and Kimball recommend this belay for another route. I certainly do not!). Then traversed way left 5.7+ to a 5.9+ crack to summit.
By Rodger Raubach
Jul 25, 2010

This is a great route, and the first pitch sets it apart from most other Lumpy Ridge climbs. Never any harder than 5.7 (Old School), but chimney/offwidth gives a good full body workout. I climbed the chimney L. side in, and then used a different crack for left hand jams. I gave it 2 stars.
By Blake Allen Green
Dec 15, 2010

Most of the comments on this route indicate the opposing views that this route is either awful or that it is great. I had a friend highly recommend it to me, but upon completion, my second and I agreed it was awful. Other members of our group concurred with this analysis.

The guidebook gives a 5.8 variation on the second pitch that's supposed to be a "hand crack"-- this crack is wider than hand/fist stack. Attempting this pitch on the assumption that hand-sized gear will be okay results in VERY sketchy running out, especially if you link the first two pitches believing your 5.8 hand crack technique is all you'll need.

I will disclaim that my partner and I did not climb the last pitch, as we were flustered from the first ones and went up the section of wall labeled "many cracks" in the guidebook, because we did not go to the left of the tooth.
By OReid
From: Denver, CO
Jun 6, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Great climb! You can easily link the 1st and 2nd, and the 3rd and 4th pitches, making it to the top in three full rope lengths. We didn't experience any rope-drag issues with doing it this way. A #4 Camalot is useful but not required. I felt that this climb was more 5.8 than 5.7, but that could be a matter of route finding, which isn't obvious. It seemed that there could be several variations to each pitch.
By Rodger Raubach
Jul 2, 2011

Nobody ever said that chimney-offwidth is really enjoyable, but it certainly makes this route a good training climb for the Durrance on Devil's Tower. I only gave this route 2 stars, 'cause I don't really enjoy the "wyde" all that much. A great line and varied climbing the remainder of the route, though.
By Andy Weinmann
From: Silver Spring, MD
Sep 13, 2011
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

My first and only climb in RMNP during a recent visit to Boulder. Led P1 and P4/5 (linked). Thought this was a fantastic route. If you don't like slabby handcracks and chimney climbing, then stay away. I'm amazed at the people who flame on this route and it's obvious they don't like crack/chimney climbing...what did you expect?!?! My partner and I both agreed it was a great route with a lot of variety. Oh and both of us did it with day packs and didn't have too much trouble.
By Kevin Wieczorek
Oct 1, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Whether or not you like this climb all depends on if you like (or know how) to climb chimneys, I dig it. I’ve done this route twice now and it amazes me how many people hate on pitch one, and claim it is not 5.7. It isn’t, it’s 5.6. If you know how to chimney, a lot of the moves on the first pitch have no-hands rests. I have taken a couple of gym climbers up this and they found the first pitch strenuous and exhausting. This is purely due to lack of technique.
I have tried both variations on pitch three, and find the cracks to the right more fun, and cleaner, than the right-facing corner to the left. The variation on pitch two that the Gillett guide calls a ‘hand crack’ looks like off-width for most people, and I haven’t done it due to a lack of big gear. In general, people’s enjoyment of a climb is in part tied to their performance on it. Many climbers do not have experience with chimneys and therefore struggle on the wide sections of this climb. If you do not like chimneys, you should walk on by, otherwise this is a fun, long, and moderate route.
By chipacles
Oct 17, 2011

I wish someone would correct the route description on this line. It's worse to get bad, COMPLETELY WRONG beta than to get no beta at all. So, to clarify:

The first pitch is long, perhaps 150 feet, and the belay ledge has NO TREE.

Pitch two has a tree and this can linked with P1 for a nice long climb.

I agree with an earlier poster that there is no "hand crack" on pitch three...there are some cracks, some parts of which are hands, but it's not a "hand crack"....unless you count varying widths and flaring shallow cracks as "hand cracks."

Request of the admin: please correct the beta so other people aren't thrown off... and while you're at it, mention that bailing off even the first pitch is going to require two ropes or leaving gear behind....
By Mark Roth
From: Boulder
Oct 17, 2011

You can bail from the 1st or 2nd pitch with one rope. Believe me, I've been rained off a couple times.... Obviously, the tree is the first anchor. The 1st pitch belay ledge usually has slings in place on the right side (if you are expecting to bail, bring some extra webbing and rings). From here, you can get to the anchor for George's Tree, and from here to the ground. I would agree that it is harder to get down with one rope from P3 and higher....
By Josh Olson
From: Durango, CO
Mar 18, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Came in to Colorado, first day out went to Lumpy and got hit HARD with altitude sickness. However, we pushed forward and hit this climb. Definitely a suggested climb. I thought the crux pitch was pitch one, but I did take a while to get used to granite. You Colorado folks sure are lucky to have this stuff in your backyard.
By brat
Apr 2, 2012
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

So, I lived in Yosemite for years and have had more than my share of old school 5.7 granite chimneys. I can enjoy that stuff. I am definitely not a sport climber.

And I downright hated Osiris. I'll go out on a limb and say it was possibly the least enjoyable climb of my life (and I climbed it on a beautiful day with beautiful people.)

The first pitch was grunty, but not bad, but the rest of it was flared, loose, convoluted, and had bushes growing out of it. I've only climbed a few routes at Lumpy before this, so maybe this is par for the course there, but I sure hope not. The guidebook called it a classic, so perhaps I am destined to hate Lumpy.
From: Santa Monica, Ca.
Apr 2, 2012

It takes awhile to get used to flaring cracks. If all you're used to are Yosemite and Indian Creek splitters, these are an acquired taste. Climb a few more, like George's Tree, and you'll get the hang of it. Then when you've really got your act in gear, try Crack of Fear on the Twin Owls (I backed off in fear and lack of energy after the 1st 50 ft, and I was following!).
By tongmengjia
From: Fort Collins, CO
Apr 6, 2012
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I decided to climb this a week ago, and it's been interesting reading the whole set of comments up til today, and the finally getting to climb it (I climbed it three years ago but didn't remember much).

I don't know how you can't love this route. The first pitch is awesome. It's strenuous but completely secure. I placed almost every piece of gear from a comfortable, no-hands stance. In my opinion, the crux started a couple body lengths below the first belay ledge.

I linked P1 & P2. P2 doesn't really stand out in any way, but it was definitely a fun pitch. The P3 dihedral is a cool feature, with some good hand and foot jams, and some flared, thin spots. The crux is vertical, and took some planning out. Once you're through the bulge, though, it's over.

I linked P4 and P5. Getting off the Fang and into the crack is no gimme. The rest of the pitch is nothing great. Lots of foliage in the cracks and dirty rock. But it's not bad climbing, and it's really just the last bit of scrambling to the summit.

Definitely gave this one 3 stars.
By J Jenk
Jun 17, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Tried to climb this a few years ago (1st climb at Lumpy), and my partner and I got our butts kicked. We ended up bailing after the second pitch.
Recently returned and found it extremely easy.... I attribute this to plenty of experience with off-widths and chimneys since the first attempt. The first pitch it super duper fun (chimney with hand crack! what more could you want?), and the rest of the climb is decently fun too. Definitely worth a go.
By Canon
May 4, 2014
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

P1 is awful. P2 is bad. P3 and P4 are fun. P5 is only there because of rope drag. The lower pitches don't make the upper pitches worth it. When you make the Fang ledge after P3, P4 starts on the FAR LEFT side of the ledge, on top of the Fang itself. If you go straight up from the P3 belay, the cracks are MUCH harder than 5.7. Let the presence of bushes and foliage in the cracks be your guide.
By Eliot Augusto
From: Boulder, CO
May 6, 2014
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

Did this yesterday. Pitch 1 and 2 were grunt fests and completely boring. Pitch 3 was nice, but I ended up taking a pretty big fall trying to climb the dihedral all the way. Pulled out a questionable #4 along the way. Move right into the parallel cracks, route finding is winning. Pitch 4 looked awful and wasn't much better.

I won't go back, but I can see how this would be a good climb for people already in the 11s. If you're a beginner climber (like me), this isn't your standard 5.7. Protects well though.
By Bob Smith 1
May 28, 2014

Pitch 1 kicked my ass, but I felt accomplished afterwards. I loved pitch 3 and belayed from a rock (maybe a fang?) on The Fang ledge. Overall, I think the best part of the climb was the views. I probably won't do it again, but it was a worthwhile experience.
By NOCO Crystal
From: Loveland, CO
Jul 28, 2014

I followed this route and thought it was no fun. I am a crack climber and felt this to be unpleasant and required route finding. The protection is OK. You can link P1 and P2 just barely with a 60m rope. The downclimb is unpleasant. I would not recommend it as a classic and would just not recommend this at all.
By jason seaver
From: Estes Park, CO
Jul 29, 2014

Surely, that was a sarcastic comment, right NOCO? You aren't actually a self described "crack climber" that dislikes route finding, right?
By morgoth70
From: Bountiful, UT
Jun 26, 2015
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Great route, totally old school. Grunting - check. Thrashing - check. Swearing - check. You will come away battered and bloody and either smiling madly, or you'll go back to clipping bolts.
By WilliamAllen
Jul 5, 2017

I found a rope stuck on this route on 7/1. Contact me via PM if it is yours
By Keith W
Jul 10, 2017
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

My 2 cents, this climb is awesome. Lots of different techniques are required for each pitch. The wide climbing was engaging and strenuous but not horrible thrutching to gain an inch. All of the other pitches are quite fun, and each has an interesting crux sequence. I thought pitch 1 was way harder than pitch 3 (which has the best crack climbing of the route). Overall, a little sandbagged but isn't everything at Lumpy? It is also much more exciting when you top out and a lightning storm is starting to pound Estes Park.
By Andy W
From: Fort Collins, CO
Aug 18, 2017

I thought this route to be an excellent intro to Lumpy; however, non-offwidth lovers need not apply. For anyone who has spent more than a day at Voo or has proper offwidth technique, you'll love P1 (recommend link with P2). True old school 5.7 with varied secure climbing, great pro to the discerning eye, and beautiful views throughout. Steeper crack from middle of Fang Ledge was great but could have used a better line through licheny fins above to summit. 3 pitches total with a 70m. Should have spent more time studying the descent. Just remember, having to work hard doesn't mean it isn't fun.

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