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Oscar the Grouch 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13 [details]
FA: FA: Mike "Bubba" Lee, FFA: Peet Danen & J Skyes
Page Views: 1,377
Submitted By: patrick donahue on Feb 14, 2011  with updates from Tom Sherman

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Jared heading up the start to Oscar the Grouch


Look for a prominent wide 3-5  crack. With awkward access from the ground follow left to right snaking hand crack to a bolt (crux). Climb hand crack at 5.7 (very course- tape advised) that leads to a bolt on a slab. Climb past bolts on slabs to an arete finish.


Look for a prominent wide 3-5  crack


standard rack and bolts

Photos of Oscar the Grouch Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Converse loving the final hand crack on Oscar the ...
Converse loving the final hand crack on Oscar the ...

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By Jeffrey.LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Sep 9, 2013

Coarse indeed. Fun hand crack nonetheless.

There's also an additional bolted face climb (called Oscar the Slouch, 5.10+, Syke/Lee) that goes up the arete right of the crack. It has it's own bolts on the slab above, leading to the same anchor.
By M Sprague
From: New England
Oct 30, 2013
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Can anybody tell me where this is relative to the other climbs listed?
By Jeffrey.LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Oct 30, 2013

When you arrive at the crag, this is about 40ft up the slope to climbers right. It's to the left of Charismatic Mime.
By M Sprague
From: New England
Aug 2, 2016
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Nice route, Though I am not quite sure where the 9 part is. Is it down low where the two bolts are? We started to the right of those bolts, so maybe we skipped it.
By Tom Sherman
From: Bristol, RI
Oct 28, 2016

Mark, you've got it. I've always started the route as where the Beta photo is showing a party starting. This can be done with a 60M, PLEASE tie knots in the end you may come up 10' short (especially lowering the leader). I've heard the slab is the crux and it starts down the slope on your left, is bolted, and requires a 70M. The beautiful hand crack is argued 5.7/5.8.... I'll vote the latter.
By Cron
From: Barrington, NH
Jun 26, 2017

I thought the lower bolted section was the crux of the route, felt spicy when wet at least. The hand/fist crack is spectacular, one of the best little sections of moderate crack I've climbed in NH so far.

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